Last week I was holidaying at Omori, at the southern end of Lake Taupo, and I did what I always do at this time of the year- I visited one of my favourite places in New Zealand, Tongariro National Park.

As restorative, humbling and awe inspiring as this region is, Whakapapa Village, at the foot of the majestic Ruapehu left me with a sense of sadness too.

With the future of its ski-fields up in the air, a desolate Tongariro Chateau, with its golf course gone to seed, and empty buildings surrounding it, the area feels quietly paused in time, with no sense of if and when it may spring back to life.

And it's not good enough. It's an incredible region, and one that deserves to be thriving.

A decision on the ski-fields will be forced soon with Ruapehu Alpines Lift's last Government cash injection. It's the fourth, only covering costs until the end of March this year. It was disappointing to see offers for the two ski fields derailed last year, and if you speak to those with a vested interest they offer little assurance the mountain will open this year. Hopefully MBIE, DoC, iwi, and RAL can work together to come to an agreement.

Of course, an operating ski field is a bonus for DoC as they seek a new partner for the Chateau. But unfortunately, there are still serious issues to deal - a lease termination agreement and payment to the previous operators, earthquake proofing upgrades to be done within the next 25 years, and other general renovations.

Tax payers will more than likely have to foot the bill – estimated at around $100 million– but will a new Government with a tight eye on the budget see the value?

Is it time to focus on other areas for accommodation in the region, such as National Park and Ohakune? I’m hugely fond of the Chateau and there is something magical about this landmark heritage building, but at present DoC is spending between $150,000 - $200,000 a month on ongoing maintenance and repair of empty buildings.

I can’t believe I am saying it, but perhaps the most practical decision is to accept the Chateau, built in the style of a Canadian Railway Hotel, has had its day.

Either way, decisions are needed. Leaving the chateau empty and decaying for years, possibly decades, while possible solutions are attempted is simply depressing. And considering that, pre-covid, 80% of Ruapehu’s tourism was domestic, the pressure should be on the Government to get the ski field sorted.

Aside from these issues, can't complain about a couple of days on the tracks and in the bush - amazing.

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