Really? Past Mid September already? 

I think that even living in Christchurch this is a rather late moment to sow the tomato seeds. On the other hand… A quick deposit of seeds now allows us to grow seedlings quickly and without risk of too much frost damage.

Go on the website of the seed merchants. Kings seeds and Yates and all the others you know. Check your local plant stores – they often have a heap of cool varieties! Get the varieties you want and start that wonderful process of getting a heap of small pots with fabulous seed-raising mix – the fine compost-like stuff that is moist (not soaking wet) and hold lots of organic matter

Tomato seeds should never be sown too deep. Think about a depth of just one millimetre if you can – just out of the reach of day-light.

The way to achieve that is by sprinkling the seeds on top of the seed-raining mix and then add a tiny layer of more seed-raising mix or… sand, if you’ve got some.

Keep the sowing trays in a warm (not too hot) and dark area.

Do NOT over-water – rather: use a “mister” to spray water over the trays.

That has the effect of keeping the seed-raising mix moist (not soaking wet)

The warmth will help with germination; sunshine is not really a useful thing; too intense!

Get the seedlings up to about 3 inches (7 centimetres or so). They will have some cotyledons (seed-leaves). Then provide them with a bit more light. Not in full sun, but in a lighter space, so that the seedlings can harden off a bit and grow a bit more “sturdy”.

They start to develop some “True leaves” on the stem. Those are the ones that will also allow the development of side shoots, which might come in handy at a later stage of the tomato plant’s growth.

After a month or so, the seedlings are ready to be transplanted; I usually take them to a larger pot with good potting mix.

The way to transport them from their seedling mix to the next-stage-potting-mix is by holding them by their true leaves (not the fragile stems!)

Once the plants are showing signs of hairiness (and sturdiness) on the stems they are ready to put in their final position.

Imagine a good, well-drained soil mixture (loam and organic matter) with a natural fertiliser such as sheep pellets. Hammer a decent 1.8 meter stake in the middle (you’ll need that stake anyway, for the tomato vine to grow with) and plant the new arrival next to the stake.

As soon as it starts to grow up try to tie it to the stake, especially if it is in a windy spot.

In my tunnel house, where we don’t get rain (!) I need to do the watering myself and therefore choose a system with liquid fertiliser. Usually alternations of Seaweed Tea and Seafood Soup. Mixed in a rather diluted form (looking like light brown water). This means that the plants get fed often and with small amounts; If planted outside, I have always had good result with a slow-release fertiliser sprinkled on the soil; above the root zone: every time it rains, some of the fertiliser will dissolve and make its way into the soil.

If you are growing indeterminate varieties of tomato (those that act like climbing vines, rather than bushy plants that stay low) try to keep up with pruning off the laterals, especially in the first meter of vine. It allows the vine to race upwards and create a much better fruiting “crown” at an easier height to pick the fruit.

Varieties that were great for me:

• Artisan Blush was by far the best variety for us – I just pulled them up as they were still producing from last year!!
• Artisan Blush
• Cocktail True Red was yummy!
• And Chef’s Choice Bicolour was the beautiful show-stopper in summer

Gerard Martin of Kings Seeds has two tips on new varieties:

• Rosella, a big cherry tomato with a black Blush
• And Orange Icicle which he describes as Meaty, Juicy, and Sweet
• Kick myself for being a bit late, this season…

LISTEN ABOVE