The great Swiss city of Zurich is one of the more picturesque, pixel-burning European gateway destinations. Within minutes of exiting Zurich Airport, armed with my trusty Eurail Pass, I was blissfully whizzing into the city centre on a 10 minute train ride. Strolling across the cobbles of this time-honoured city in the crisp spring air, there’s so much urban eye-candy to lift the spirit. I sized up the largest clock face in Europe, on the edge of the Limmat River. It’s bigger than Big Ben.

Riding the skyline, the historic tower of St Peter Church is imbued with a trusty timepiece, as are the oh-so punctual church bells that loudly reverberate across the Old Town from the four historic churches, including mighty Grossmunster Cathedral. No wonder everything runs to time in Switzerland. According to legend, Zurich’s 13th-century landmark cathedral was founded by Charlemagne, built on the graves of the city’s patron saints, Felix and Regula. It was also the starting place of the Protestant Reformation in Zurich. Culture is writ large in Zurich’s Old Town, where the narrow-cobbled streets gave rise to the Dada art movement just over a century ago. I popped into Cabaret Voltaire, at Spiegelgasse 1, which was the birthplace of Dada and the avant-garde artistic movement in 1916. Absinthe is the drink of choice here, among Dada’s ghosts.

Strolling along Bahnhofstrasse, flanked by chic designer boutiques and swanky department stores, Café Sprungli deserves a pit-stop. This prized Zurich institution is rightly lauded for its heavenly macaroons and hand-crafted chocolates. They are like exquisite works of art – as were the Easter chocolate displays. It’s like a bespoke art gallery in chocolate.

Don’t mind if I do. Further down the street, if feeling a little decadent, make a date with Teuscher for its famed champagne truffles. In a city of water and stone bridges, a top vantage point to survey the elemental landscape, above the twisting lanes of the Old Town, is the Lindenhof. This was the site of a former Roman customs house and fourth-century fort, perched above the water. Alongside soaking up the city vistas, this elevated park with its Linden trees and giant chess sets is the pitch-perfect spot for a cheeky picnic.

The vast assortment of guildhalls is core to Zurich’s backstory, and they’re great fun to explore. In 1336, Zurich’s first independent mayor, Rudolf Brun, established the guild laws, effectively shifting power from the abbeys to the merchant nobility. The handsome guildhalls, with all their intricate decorative features, lend themselves to a leisurely inspection. I started at the bakers’ guild, in Oberdorfstrasse, before heading over the river’s east bank to Niederdorf, to admire the guilds of the carpenters, builders, the food and wine dealers, the textiles and spice merchants, all along Limmatquai. Then, on Munsterhof, you’ve got mansions of the weavers, saddlemakers, painters and winemakers.

In German-speaking Zurich, the street food tradition of wurst remains wildly popular – particularly for lunch. In the Old Town, tuck into some great sausage at Wursteria by Hinz and Kunz. This part-butcher shop and part deli serves up super spicy bratwurst in a fluffy

bun. So good! As its name suggests, Cafe Conditorei 1842, on Napfgasse, is an old-school establishment, chock-full of sweet indulgence. Spanning four floors, food lovers can enjoy patisserie, cakes and hot drinking chocolate – they claim to be Zurich’s best. On the ground floor of this historic confectioner’s store, impressively decorated in neo-baroque style, you’ll struggle to find a finer array of patisserie, cakes and tarts. I could have stayed there all day. And yes – the steaming mug of hot chocolate with whipped cream was magnificent.

Speaking of chocolate, the Lindt and Sprungli factory has called Zurich home, since 1899. Seven years in the making, Lindt Home of Chocolate, was designed to complement the historic building and serve as a beacon to chocolate lovers everywhere. From cultivation to production, the interactive museum does a sterling job telling the story of Swiss chocolate making, not only about Lindt, but its predecessors. While the maze of white, milk, and dark chocolates is impressive, the Lindt Home of Chocolate also boasts another record: the world's largest chocolate fountain. Standing at about 30 feet tall, even Willy Wonka would be impressed by this show-stopper.

Zurich is home to FIFA’s world headquarters and in a bid to stop pesky football fans from loitering in the lobby, the FIFA Museum was created nine years ago, in the heart of town. Spread over three floors and loaded with interactive exhibitions, the FIFA Museum examines all aspects of the global game and how it passionately stirs people’s emotions. Football is the great equaliser. Along with the original FIFA World Cup Trophy, the museum displays over 1,000 items of exclusive memorabilia and apparel, including the national shirts of all FIFA member associations.

The original trophy, which features a gold statuette of Nike, the Greek goddess of victory, holding a cup, was permanently awarded to Brazil after they won the cup for the third time, in 1970. The current trophy contains 5kg of pure gold and its estimated value is over NZ$30m. A highlight amongst the interactive games gallery is the gigantic pinball machine, where you can test your own ball kicking skills. With the next World Cup just a year away and featuring the All Whites for just the third time, add this museum to your check-list.

Creating quite a buzz in recent years, Zurich-West has been spectacularly transformed from a once scruffy industrial district. Emerging as a vibrant cultural quarter of trendy eateries and edgy art, factories have been repurposed as theatres and shipyards reimagined as art galleries. Viadukt is an exemplary example of the makeover, with a host of eateries, pop-up shops and art spaces housed inside the arches of the disused, 550-feet long railway viaduct. You’ll also find Prime Tower here, a 35-storey skyscraper (Switzerland’s tallest), serving up a panoramic treat across Zurich’s rooftops, gleaming lake and snow-coated peaks beyond. Take in the sweeping scenery over a drink or two at Clouds Bar – and salute your return to Europe.

The locals are very proud of the city’s brilliant and bizarre festivals. In August Zurich hosts Street Parade, one of Europe's biggest celebrations of peace, love and electronic music,

attended by millions of people. In a couple of weeks, the city grinds to a halt for Seschselauten. This annual April spectacle involves setting on fire a giant straw snowman called the Boogg. The time it takes for the Boogg's head to explode indicates whether it will be a good summer, apparently. The word is Zurich is in for a long, warm summer.

Perfectly poised overlooking Paradeplatz, the city’s most prestigious address, the Mandarin Oriental Savoy Hotel offers a stylish stay to remember, when in Zurich. Just steps from the city’s iconic shopping sweep of Bahnhofstrasse, it’s been just over a year since the Mandarin Oriental revitalised what has been Zurich’s oldest grand hotel, reaching back to 1838. Elegantly and artfully refreshed, with a boutique hotel vibe, the 80 impeccably redesigned rooms and suites raise the bar on luxury and indulgence.

There’s four distinctive dining venues including the Michelin-starred Orsini, where the Italian fine dining experience is helmed by acclaimed two-Michelin starred Italian Consultant Chef Antonio Guida. Then there’s 1838, the effervescent rooftop bar with its spell-binding panoramic vistas of the city, lake and serrated Swiss Alps. Plus Savoy Brasserie & Bar is a sure-bet for a stupendous breakfast, with an delightfully presented buffet selection, in addition to a la carte menu items.

Accommodations take their design cues from the natural palette of Zurich, headlined by the artisanal hand-painted silk wallpapers, inspired by the aqua green and blue hues of the lake and sky, to the mist of the surrounding mountains. Meticulously crafted design elements and materials adorn the rooms. Accents of colour are also reflected in custom furniture and carpets. Principal materials include walnut as a common thread, touches of bronze and brass and enamelled lava together with the comfort of luxurious textiles. Throughout the hotel, I loved admiring the multitude of sculptural lighting fixtures and lamps. I stayed in the Munsterhof Suite, accentuating the sumptuous sense of comfort, glamour and space, loaded with indulgent touches. There’s a personal cocktail bar, built-in headboards, sublime marble-clad bathrooms and expansive walk-in dressing areas.

As is the case with all Mandarin Oriental properties, you’ll soon get a sense of the strong local connection the hotel has with the city. Local artists are proudly showcased with numerous pieces of art to admire, throughout the hotel. Grab a peek at the storied meeting room on the second floor, which is still home to the Guild of Tanners and Shoemakers. These traditional Swiss craftsmen have been meeting here for over a century. Service personifies whip-smart Swiss efficiency and the charismatic staff are highly personable, outgoing and engaging. You’ll struggle to find fault with this gorgeous hotel which has mastered the art of fusing contemporary comforts with timeless opulence and celebrating a deep respect for history, tradition and proud sense of place. www.mandarinoriental.com

Grab a ticket to ride on the European railway network with a Eurail Pass. For over 65 years, Eurail Passes have enabled flexible borderless rail travel across Europe. 7000 Kiwis purchased such a pass last year, which gives you access to 30,000 destinations across 33

countries, allowing you to chart your own amazing rail adventure. On popular rail routes, it certainly pays to make a seat reservation in advance. Lock in your rail plans ahead of your trip, by booking tickets or a rail pass to suit with Eurail direct. The mobile pass is the way to go. The Eurail app is easy to navigate, packed with helpful information and benefits, network disruption notifications, and enabling you to check timetables, lock in bookings and seat reservations on the go, via your mobile. www.eurail.com

Fly to Zurich with Cathay Pacific who operate ultra-contemporary A350-1000s, from Auckland via Hong Kong. The cabin air quality is decidedly better, the aircraft are noticeably quieter and I experienced minimal jet-lag. The extensive CX Entertainment system kept me suitably engaged with excellent movie and box-set selections, live news channels - all in vivid 4K, plus in-flight WiFi is available. www.cathaypacific.com

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller and can be heard every Saturday with Jack Tame on Newstalk ZB.

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