If Antarctica is top of your wish list, avoid the shoulda, woulda, coulda and heed advice from someone who has already ticked it off, writes Julie Fison

With its surreal snow-covered scenery, monstrous blue icebergs and extraordinary wildlife, Antarctica is the ultimate destination for lovers of the natural world. But ticking this remote continent off the wish list takes careful planning – from deciding whether to sail or fly across the dreaded Drake Passage, to choosing the right beanie to take. These top tips will ensure Antarctica is the holiday of a lifetime.

Which ship should I choose?

Around 60 cruise ships operate in Antarctic waters – mostly leaving from Ushuaia in Argentina and Punta Arenas in Chile. Choosing a ship depends on your budget and what you want from your holiday. If your priority is getting ashore, and maximising your time exploring Antarctica, go for a small expedition ship. Only 100 people are allowed ashore in Antarctica from a single vessel at any one time. If your ship carries 200 passengers or more, you’ll still get ashore, but there could be more waiting involved, as groups are rotated. Ships that carry more than 500 passengers are barred from shore excursions. If you are on a budget, check out scientific expedition ships that focus more on experience than luxury. You might miss out on the hot tub, but you’ll still see the amazing wildlife. Look out for last-minute deals and travel outside the peak season to save money. November and March are the cheapest months.

Around 60 cruise ships operate in Antarctic waters. Photo / John Fison

Should I sail or fly across the Drake Passage?

The Drake Passage is a notoriously rough stretch of ocean between the southern tip of South America and the Antarctic Peninsula. Many cruises offer the chance to fly to, or from, Antarctica. This literally means flying between Punta Arenas – at the southern end of Chile – and King George Island – at the northern end of the Antarctic Peninsula. This way you avoid the two-day sea passage across the Drake, where you’re most likely to get seasick. Cool, right? Well, not always. Flights are weather dependent. Planes can land and take off only when the visibility is good. That means you could wait days for the weather to clear, as we did. Safer to sail both ways, or, if you’re worried about the Drake, sail to Antarctica and fly back. Build in a couple of extra days in Chile on the way home, just in case you get waylaid.

Drake Passage can be notoriously rough. Photo / Getty Images

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What do I pack for Antarctica?

You’ve probably seen the images in the cruise brochures – blue skies, icebergs floating on glassy waters, kayakers paddling serenely through sea ice. And maybe you’ll be lucky enough to get beautifully calm weather on your trip to Antarctica. But just in case you encounter howling winds, sleet and heavy swells as we did, best to be prepared. Cruise ships generally provide you with a polar jacket and muck boots, but here are a few other things that you can’t do without. Make sure you pack them in your hand luggage, so even if you arrive in South America with no suitcase, you’ll still have the essentials for your Antarctic trip.

• Waterproof pants – absolutely essential. You will get wet in the Zodiac!
• Layers: three thermal layers are normally enough under your jacket, plus woollen ski socks, and thermal pants for underneath your waterproof pants.
• Gloves: waterproof gloves and silk inner gloves worked well for me. Consider gloves with a finger pad, so you don’t have to take off your gloves to snap photos of that cute penguin chick.
• Lanyards, carabiners and chains: these are extremely handy for phones, gloves and glasses, so you don’t lose essentials over the side of the ship or Zodiac. It’s wise to bring a spare pair of gloves, extra sunnies and specs, just in case.
• Beanie: bring one that covers your ears and fits snugly. A loose beanie will literally blow off in the wind – I am not kidding. Pompoms get in the way if you need to fasten your hood, so it’s best to choose a less fancy model. Unless you’re an Insta influencer, leave the fur hat at home. It will take up valuable space in your suitcase and probably never see the light of day. If it does get an outing, chances are it will end up looking like a drowned cat.
• Neck gaiter: I literally would have perished without my Buff. Opt for one that is fleece at the bottom and a breathable fabric at the top to pull over your face.

All rugged up, Julie Fison sits front and centre, wearing a highly-recommended Buff. Photo / Supplied

What camera gear should I take?

Antarctica is a photographer’s paradise. If you’re serious about getting great wildlife shots, you’ll need at least a 200mm zoom lens. Take at least one spare battery, as they run down faster than usual in the cold. You’ll often be shooting from the Zodiac where there’s a high chance of getting wet, so even if you have a weather-proof camera, take a waterproof bag. When you get back to the ship, use a silica gel bag for drying the camera. Clean the camera every day to avoid saltwater corrosion, and take a sensor cleaner if you have multiple lenses. Antarctica is a no-drone zone, so leave that at home. And one more thing: don’t forget to put your camera down, now and then, and just enjoy the sights.

Antarctica is a photographer’s paradise. Photo / John Fison

Do I need to be fit?

You might be on a luxury cruise ship, but outside conditions are extreme and unpredictable. Getting in and out of a Zodiac with a big swell banging against the side of the ship can be a challenge. Core strength and general fitness will mean you’re less likely to topple over and land on other guests, or in the water. It happens.

Anyone can go on a cruise to Antarctica, but a reasonable level of fitness is a big advantage. Photo / Getty Images

What’s the best way to spot wildlife?

You’ll get close to penguin colonies and seals when you go ashore, but you can increase your chances of spotting wildlife by spending as much time as possible on deck. From the bow of the ship, you’re likely to see whales, penguins streaking through the water looking for food, and seals dozing on icebergs. If you’re not fighting 10m swells, the Drake Passage is a great opportunity to spot birdlife from the stern. Albatross follow the cruise ships – soaring in the thermals and scouring the wake for food. Dolphins are also regular visitors. I spotted a pod of hourglass dolphins riding the bow waves one afternoon, and had them all to myself – briefly, anyway.

Gentoo penguins sitting on an Antarctica iceberg. Photo / John Fison

Will we follow a schedule?

Don’t rely on it. The weather is extreme, so plans can change. Rough conditions throughout our trip prevented us from doing the traditional polar plunge off the back of the ship, but our expedition leader improvised – organising a mass plunge from the beach at Deception Island. Wading into freezing cold water is normally my idea of hell, but I did it, and have the T-shirt to prove it. Make the most of everything you can. The magic happens outside your comfort zone.

What can I do in Punta Arenas and Ushuaia?

Flights in South America, like everywhere else, get delayed and cancelled, so cruise operators recommend arriving a day early in Ushuaia or Punta Arenas – depending on where you are starting your trip. For history buffs, Punta Arenas is a real gem. Visit the central Plaza de Armas, wander around the marble crypts in the municipal cemetery, and sip a pisco sour at the Shackleton Bar in the Hotel Jose Nogueira for a taste of the grand old days. Just out of town, don’t miss the Nao Victoria Museum, which boasts replicas of Magellan’s ship, the Victoria, and Shackleton’s James Caird. Ushuaia, which sits on the Beagle Channel, is the world’s southernmost city. It is a resort town as well as an Argentinian naval base, framed by snow-capped mountains and crammed with quirky shops and restaurants. You can explore the whole town in a few hours, or take a train from here to the beautiful Tierra del Fuego national park.

What should I do before and after my cruise?

Getting to Antarctica from pretty much anywhere on the planet is an expensive project, so it makes sense to explore some of South America while you’re there. We spent almost a week in Patagonia before our cruise. It’s an unbeatable place to start your adventure if you like hiking, horse riding and magnificent mountain scenery. After the cruise, we flew to the Argentinian capital, Buenos Aires. This vibrant city has lots to see, great places to eat and drink – especially in the Palermo district – and is the perfect place to thaw out.

If you are departing from Punta Arenas, and returning to Ushuaia, visit Chile before your cruise and explore Argentina afterwards. Criss-crossing between Chile and Argentina is expensive and difficult. Do yourself a favour – get out a map and dedicate some time to logistics before you book anything.

Is it really worth the money?

Antarctica is like nowhere else I’ve been. Pictures of penguins and icebergs only tell you part of the story. They can’t convey the scale of this pristine white wilderness, the fragility of the ecosystem, and the power of Antarctica to make you forget the outside world. Visiting Antarctica is expensive, and getting there can be a frustrating adventure in itself, but sailing through this unique environment is a rare privilege. It is absolutely worth the investment.

On an Antarctica trip, you'll get close to penguin colonies and seals when you go ashore. Photo / John Fison

What are the weight restrictions for luggage?

If you are flying to Antarctica, there’s a 20kg limit on your suitcase, plus a 7kg limit on hand luggage. A bit of discipline is therefore required on the packing front. Stick to practical, casual gear and you’ll be fine. It’s also worth noting that there is a 15kg limit on check-in bags on domestic flights on Latam.

Julie Fison is an Australian author. Her latest book – One Punch is the story of two mothers facing impossible decisions after one life-changing night. Available from Affirm Press.