Colourful, playful, sun-splashed Cairns enjoys the unique distinction of being cradled in tropical wonder. The gateway city straddles two World Heritage-protected treasures: the Great Barrier Reef and the Wet Tropics rainforest. I took a daytrip to the family-favourite destination of Fitzroy Island. Just 45 minutes from Cairns on the Fitzroy Flyer, this barefoot island getaway serves up a flavourful dabble with the Great Barrier Reef. The island is designated a National Park, in deference to its spectacular walking trails, rainforest, beaches and abundant marine life, in the calm sheltered waters. It’s jaw-dropping to think the island was previously connected to the mainland before the last Ice Age.  

I took a snorkel around the island’s coral gardens, where the technicoloured blaze of pinks, purples and apricots was irresistibly reassuring about this subterranean wonderland. I also took the short walk to Nudey Beach, which was crowned Australia’s most beautiful beach a few years ago. It’s a sweet little princess of a beach. I loved the walk’s sharp contrasting beauty, from the lush vivid greens of the rainforest to the giant granite boulders and the sparkling azure waters beyond. You could be forgiven for thinking that you’ve clicked your heels and spirited yourself to a swanky island resort in the South Pacific.  

There’s a variety of tours and activities, but a must-do is the Cairns Turtle Rehabilitation Centre on Fitzroy Island, which is dedicated to the rehabilitation of sick and injured turtles – many who fall victim to boat strikes and marine debris ingestion. The Great Barrier Reef is home to six of the world’s seven species of marine turtles, including Green and Hawksbill turtles, and with 20 tanks, this is Queensland’s largest volunteer-run rehab facility, caring for creatures from as far as Cape York. Fun fact: turtles can stay underwater for 7 hours.  

Cairns Turtle Rehabilitation Centre, Fitzroy Island. Photo / TTNQ

After a delightful day feasting on Fitzroy, I feasted just as heartily at Salt House, one of the city’s premium waterfront venues, with mouth-watering views from Marina Point and a gorgeous fairy-lit garden bar as well. Their mango, guava and lime-based Flying Fox cocktail hit the spot perfectly. As did the cuisine. Salt House are sticklers for staking out local producers to hero on the menu. Don’t go past the half-shell roasted Queensland scallops with curry sauce, pineapple relish and Vietnamese mint. For sharing, their charcuterie board brims with sopressa, bresaola, prosciutto, nduja, peppers, cornichons and flatbread. 

The hotel scene in Cairns is constantly being refreshed and a star-performer right above the Esplanade Dining Precinct, is Crystalbrook Flynn. Ultra-contemporary, art-filled and very calming, staff are highly attentive and accommodations are indulgent. From glass swimming pools and zen-filled wellness and meditation spaces to dynamic dining experiences where there’s always a DJ ready to play and a martini ready to be shaken. The shimmering pool is a godsend for a cooldown, while you also have an Eléme Day Spa and a 24-hour gym at the ready. The buffet breakfast is worth waking up early for! www.crystalbrookcollection.com/flynn  

Driving north from Cairns to Port Douglas, the catchphrase “where the rainforest meets the reef” is a calling card that lustily lives up to its billing. As I marvelled over the jungle-clad mountains tumbling down to the gleaming azure sea, I called into another tourism honeypot, en-route to Port Douglas. Palm Cove is a heart-stealer, a languid bolthole by the Coral Sea where centuries old “paperbark” Melaleuca trees flank the casual esplanade. Interspersed with waving palms, the shaded village atmos of Palm Cove is reminiscent of some of Hawaii’s coastal settlements, where inviting eateries and cafes and a lazy-day tempo command proceedings.  

Palm Cove Beach. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Tootling up the Captain Cook Highway, the turn-off to swanky Port Douglas soon beckoned. To the locals, they simply call it “Port,” a fashionable destination for visitors seeking respite from cooler climes for decades – including myself! 

Just out of town, Shannonvale Tropical Fruit Winery is a holiday for your tastebuds, enrobed in the pre-historic splendour of the ancient rainforest. The Woodall family own the winery where they’ve been creating award-winning tropical fruit wine for over 20 years. I sipped and swilled my way through a plethora of flavours, including Mango, Kaffir Lime, Jaboticaba, Passionfruit, Lychee, Ginger, Black Sapote and even Chocolate. They are an acquired taste – although the dry mango wine is not dissimilar to a Chardonnay. The Passionfruit wine is dry, full-flavoured and complex – great with cheese. It’s like a semillon. Jaboticaba is an Amazon grape, that grows well in the region. It’s the only reliable red wine they have come across. Trudy Woodall and her son Laza are highly hospitable hosts who will have you sold on their seductively good tropical fruit wines, in no time. Chocolate fans, rejoice. The region has become a powerhouse producer of Australian cocoa, with various commercial plantations engaged in the bean-to-bar chocolate-making industry. Just around the corner form the winery in the Shannonvale Valley is the Australian Chocolate Farm. They offer great farm tours and tastings, throughout the day. 

Trudy at Shannonville Tropical Fruit Winery Tour. Photo / TTNQ

Mossman Gorge, with its crystal-clear water cascading over large granite boulders, is a celebrated spot in Daintree National Park. Rising up from the riverbanks, lush rainforests cloak steep mountainsides. For one of Australia’s best indigenous walking experiences, head to the Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre, which evolved from Kuku Yalanji man Roy Gibson’s dream to share his culture with visitors and create employment for his people. I joined a guided Dreamtime Walk into the rainforest, which began with a traditional smoking ceremony to ward off bad spirits. 20-year-old Ben was my indigenous guide, who over the course of 90 minutes, kept our group enthralled with his commanding knowledge and insights of the rainforest as a food source, pharmacy and hardware store. His soap and ochre paint-making demonstrations were fascinating. Passing by some enormous strangler fig trees, Ben remarked that when he dies, he wants to be buried the traditional way. His body will be placed at the bottom of the tree and nature will steadily weave its magic, with the vines wrapping around his body, consuming his remains and returning it to the earth.  

Ben remarked that on Fraser Island, the traditional indigenous burial entails placing the body high in the tree – otherwise the dingoes will beat nature to the punch!  He also introduced us to Kuku Yalanji’s legendary bouncing stones, which the locals believe are magical. Ben was adamant, “these stones are not to be messed with.” They do indeed bounce off each other like bouncing balls. Many are sourced and stolen from Thornton Beach – with some later returned to ward off bad luck. The beach is sacred to Kuku Yalanji, because it’s where the tribe’s women would traditionally meet to discuss women’s business. The geological phenomenon of these stones has aroused much academic interest. As big as rugby balls, geologists classify them as fine-grained pebbles derived from hardened siliceous siltstones. Our absorbing encounter in the forest was topped off with Daintree tea, damper scones and local honey. 

Ben the guide on the Dreamtime walk at the Mossman Gorge. Photo / Mike Yardley 

For dinner, I headed to the very convivial Seabean Restaurant in Port Douglas, where the dishes draw upon the flavours of the Mediterranean coast, underpinned by a fine selection of sherries, Spanish wine, sangria, and boutique rums. The tapas selections are particularly impressive. Don’t miss the Palestinian kofta with hummus, tabouli and garlic sauce. Where to stay? You’ll feel like you’ve been transported to a boutique tropical island resort at Mantra Portsea. This leafy Port Douglas resort combines swish accommodation and facilities, outstanding service and easy access to the region’s highlights. Set amongst calming water features and lush gardens brimming with tropical flowers and palms, the resort features beautifully appointed accommodations. The centrepiece is the salivating lagoon pool with swim-up bra, exquisitely designed and super-sized. Located just a short walk from Four Mile Beach, it’s a winning spot. www.mantrahotels.com 

Escape the everyday, escape to Tropical North Queensland, where the rainforest meets the reef. A one million year old garden and the world’s largest pool. www.cairnsgreatbarrierreef.com 

I flew to Cairns with Qantas, who offer well-timed connections via Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. Flying to over 60 destinations across Australia, for best flights and fares head to www.qantas.com 

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.