If you’re heading to the West Coast via Lewis Pass, make a date with the starring town of Reefton. From Springs Junction, the highway threads through the verdant beech forest finery of Victoria Forest Park, New Zealand’s largest conservation park of its type, spanning 180,000 hectares. There are gold mining and quartz mining relics in the area, with a variety of sublime hikes, from short strolls to epic, multi day tramps. But the hospitality beacon is Reefton, the Town of Light, where the glint of gold gave birth to its name courtesy of the vast quartz reef that spawned the 1870 gold rush. 

Reefton is not just one of New Zealand’s more storied and characterful townships, but arguably one of the most infatuating. For travellers heading to the West Coast from Nelson or North Canterbury, pint-sized Reefton heralds your arrival into the heritage-laden region of gold, coal and wilderness. But thanks to the entrepreneurial zeal of a wave of recent newcomers, this history-soaked town is on a roll, blending heritage glory, with soft adventure, artisanal verve and mining-based economic prosperity. Not to mention, it’s main street movie-set good looks. 

Eye-catching Reefton has a vast stash of magnificently restored historic buildings and colourful shopfronts, like the perennially popular Broadway Tearooms. Next door, the Bassano Pizza Parlour has recently opened, specialising in contemporary Italian wood-fired pizza. Further down the main street, a newcomer is the stunning Steptoe’s Coffee Emporium – the perfect place to recaffeinate! Pop into the Reefton Visitor Centre which boasts a magnificent replica underground mine, plus you can select a local documentary to watch in the Golden Globe Theatre. 

Broadway Tearooms in Reefton. Photo / Mike Yardley

Whether you’re on foot or exploring by bike, Reefton is blessed with tracks and trails to suit all stamina levels. As a Tohu Whenua heritage site, Reefton is recognised as a place of rich stories that helped mould the nation we know today. Nestled alongside the beautiful Inangahua River, the Paparoa Range and the Victoria Forest Park, nature’s embrace enrobes you. Combine that with the storied gold mining relics and historical sites, and exploring the bush unravels all manner of gems. A short and sweet walk is the Bottled Lightning Powerhouse Walk. This 40 minute loop walk starts on Broadway heading out of town towards the Inanagahua River Bridge. Cross over the bridge and head down Rosstown Road, with a sequence of interpretation panels along the way.  

Although the remains at the powerhouse site are very run down now, there is currently a working party who are underway with plans to hopefully have the powerhouse back up and running. It was here that New Zealand's first public supply of electricity was generated back in 1888. Head on over the gnarly old swing-bridge that drapes across the Inanagahua River, returning you back onto Broadway. Just out of town, two remarkable treasures to add to your check-list - Blacks Point Museum and Golden Fleece Battery. 

Reefton is proudly home to the runaway success story of the six-year-old Reefton Distilling Company, housed in one of the historic town’s original buildings. The tasting bar and retail store will enthral you as you sample their local botanical gins, vodka and fruit liqueurs. There’s a regular roster of special events, like their recent dessert & cocktail pairing evening. How good! Little Biddy Gin remains the headliner, continuing to scoop a swag of industry awards. Little Biddy Gin is vapour infused with botanicals, foraged directly from the Reefton rainforest. To cope with the demand and to enhance the visitor experience, a new distillery with even more stills has been developed, on the outskirts of town. The expansion dovetailed with the first casks being filled with Moonlight Creek Single Malt Whisky.  

Reefton Distilling Co. and Model A. Photo / Supplied

The first release of 1000 litres, at a minimum of 3 years maturation, will occur next year. Crafted from grain to glass at the distillery from the finest New Zealand barley, Moonlight Creek Single Malt Whisky pre-sales have been strong. It’s named in honour of George Fairweather Moonlight, a legendary West Coast gold prospector who made a very successful strike at Moonlight Creek, a tributary of the Grey River. The site eventually yielded New Zealand’s largest nugget, the 'Pessini' in 1917. His method was to discover major gold areas rapidly and repeatedly, then abandon them to the hundreds of diggers that inevitably swarmed in. 

Just a few doors down from Reefton Distilling Company’s tasting bar on Smith St is the most evocative accommodation experience to seal the deal on a Reefton stay. The Brewer’s Night Inn is a siren to history, a resilient and revitalised relic in Reefton, reaching back to 1878. The cottage was built just eight years after the gold rush that gave rise to the town. During the gold rush era, Stewart Monteith, a wealthy young chap fresh from the Australian goldfields, settled in Reefton. Venturing into brewing, he purchased the Phoenix Brewery which was later managed by his son and was merged into the Westland Brewing Co. That was later acquired by Dominion Breweries who launched the legendary Monteith’s brew. 

The Brewer's Night Inn. Photo / Supplied

This charming little cottage was Stewart Monteith’s dwelling. Upon arrival, open the fridge and crack open a Monteith’s beer in salute to Stewart, nearly 150 years on since he lived here. Within this rustic luxury boutique accommodation offering, the rich sense of history sings. You’ll find seamlessly integrated contemporary touches with authentic materials like hardwood timbers, cast iron, rusted steel, brass, copper, and concrete. Every detail, from light switches to pipework, embraces the raw and natural essence of the space. Everything about the restoration has been so thoughtfully conceived. 

You can explore the traces of history as you admire original 1878 hand-cut Rimu wall timber, vintage newsprint, and layers of wallpaper from the past 145 years. These features are left untouched for you to encounter, as if you’ve time-travelled back to Reefton’s gold rush era. From the custom-designed bed and kitchen cabinets to the secret wardrobe and hand-built sinks, every element was designed and created specifically for the Inn. The open-plan layout, enormous leather couch and wood-fire accentuates the supreme sense of homely warmth and cosiness. The enormous tub backed with charred timber walls is another special touch, as is the wildflower garden right outside the French doors of the bedroom, heightening the country cottage oasis vibe. Then there is the novel music room with a piano, stereo and turntable – and extensive collection of vinyls. Crank it up! 

Vintage living at the Night Inn. Photo / Supplied

Crafted with impeccable attention to detail by Tim Groenendaal and Xavier Black, you’ll be spell-bound by this evocative journey, melding the vintage charm of a bygone age with contemporary luxury. Sleeping two, you can also bring your furry friends, because Tim is a dedicated animal rescue advocative, so paw pals are most welcome. Heritage-hounds, rejoice! The Brewer’s Night Inn sleeps two and is the epitome of a singular accommodation experience that serves as a splendid keeper of the past, in thoughtful comfort and style. It’s an essential West Coast encounter. www.thenightinn.com  

Strike out on a wonderful escape to the untamed natural wilderness of the West Coast this summer. For more trip inspiration, head to https://westcoast.co.nz 

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.