Dunedin has very strong bones. There’s a strength and solidity to the streetscape, landmarked with stately stone central city buildings with echoes of the Otago goldrush. The sprawling trove of Victorian and Edwardian confections span a variety of architectural styles, from neo-Gothic and Renaissance-style to surprising flourishes of Art Deco, strolling central Dunedin is a sweet way to savour the storied, understated grandeur of its urban character and texture. The neo-Gothic glory of Dunedin Railway Station is the undisputed poster child, but gaze up at the building facades as you tootle around town and the sprawling heritage procession is a feast for the eyes.

After three years of hard slog and a fair slab of controversy, Dunedin’s most significant infrastructure project in decades, the George Street makeover was recently completed. Spurred on by the need to replace aging water pipes, the $100m project was completed earlier this year on one of the country’s oldest retail streets. It is an absolute joy to shop, nosh and linger in the city’s pre-eminent retail area. The monumental revitalisation is undeniably pedestrian-centric, featuring new paving, inviting street furniture, fabulous plantings, a kerbside playground, carnival lighting and public art. I particularly loved strolling the street and admiring the ditties etched into the pavers, showcasing local luminaries, like poet Hone Tuwhare, writer Janet Frame, and some lyrics by seminal Dunedin band, The Clean. It is also so much fun to shop in a properly functioning CDB shopping district, pulsing with vitality. Unlike our other major cities, Dunedin hasn’t been hollowed out with suburban malls. The Meridian Mall, Wall Street and Golden Centre are all great CBD retail-magnets, luring the masses to shop on George St.

Photo / Mike Yardley

Another equally alluring central city neighbourhood well worth delving into is the Warehouse Precinct, wedged between Queens Gardens and Police Street. Just a few blocks south of the Octagon, this historic district was once the powerhouse of Dunedin’s commercial and industrial growth, on the back of the gold rush. Over the past decade, the revitalised district has been repurposed as a hip foodie haven, interspersed with trendy offices and apartments and a head-swirling array of street art. The precinct’s small collection of streets are photogenic joy to free-roam, with Vogel Street boasting some of the area’s finest features. The biggest concentration of Dunedin’s street art can be found here with building owners donating their wall space as a canvas for international and domestic street artists to splash and bedazzle. Don’t miss No Name Alley, which is like a wondrous corridor of murals. As a UNESCO Creative City, there’s more than 50 pieces of commissioned street art in Central Dunedin alone. Take a self-guided wander on the designated Dunedin Street Art Trail to savour these whimsical works.

Not dissimilar to New York’s Meatpacking District, some of Dunedin’s buzzing food venues can also be found here in the Warehouse Precinct, including Vogel Street Kitchen. Housed in a 120-year-old printery, this ten-year-old café was the pioneeering hospo spot in the Warehouse Precinct. With its exposed brick interior and unique mezzanine floor, it’s a sure-bet for great coffee and wood-fired pizza. Then there’s Heritage Coffee, housed in an elegant cream building that began life as the Harbour Masters building. Coffee snobs also rave about Vanguard, a specialty coffee roastery and brew bar.

I also enjoyed a great bite for lunch from Big Lizard Ōtepoti, in Vogel Street. The owners Alan and Renee are seasoned hospo pros and this recently opened bakery feels like its shuffled out of a Melbourne laneway, instantly fostering a red-hot following. This new deli-style takeaway offers coffee, ready-made focaccia sandwiches, and made-to-order rolls, while their legendary pastries are irresistible. For posh nosh, a mainstay is Moiety, the ground floor of the Terminus building. This former hotel from the 1880s has been converted into apartments, while the distinguished restaurant offers a five-course tasting menu showcasing ingredients from small local producers, with a stunningly curated wine list.

Photo / Dunedin NZ

Another great option to add to your bingo card is Graze & Glow, just down from the Octagon on lower Stuart Street. Everything on the menu costs $9. Aptly named, this small bites eatery is bathed in a neon-lit glow, and spans everything from place from tacos and croquettes to lamb skewers and gnocchi. Don’t be surprised to find a line out the door. For a fuss-free takeaway, I’m a long-time fan of Anatolia Turkish Kebab House, a Princes St institution. Murat Bay and his family have been feeding Dunedin for 25 years with their supreme kebabs. Be sure to plump for Anatolia’s special sauce.

Dunedin’s brew scene has a long and storied past. First, there’s the mighty Victorian heft of the Speights Brewery, which looks like it could be cast as Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory. Established in 1875, this is the oldest working brewery in New Zealand and the brewery tours are excellent in this landmark red-brick behemoth on Rattray Street. (You can also refill your water bottle for free from the tap that draws from the brewery’s freshwater spring.) Further your liquid education at Dunedin's iconic craft brewery, Emerson’s. Founded by Richard Emerson over 30 years ago, this brewery is widely considered as a trail-blazer for New Zealand’s craft beer industry. This much-loved Dunedin institution offers a vibrant atmosphere and outdoor beer garden, matched with delicious craft beer and a menu that caters for all tastes. I adore their Pilsner. While you’re in No Name Alley, check out a recent arrival that’s drawing a following, Steamer Basin brewery and taproom, one of the numerous micro-breweries to enrich the city’s craft scene in recent years.

Photo / Dunedin NZ

For splendid southern hospitality, blending heritage with style, book a stay at the Scenic Hotel Southern Cross. Dunedin’s largest and most established hotel delivers premier CBD accommodation, with all the major sights in easy reach on foot. Dating back to 1883 and the post-goldrush building boom, the landmark building celebrates Dunedin’s distinctive southern charm, honours the heritage and swaddles you in contemporary comfort. Originally known as the Grand Hotel, it was built by brothers James and John Watson – and no expense was spared in the magnificent architecture and ornate interior. Reporting on the opening, the Otago Daily Times wrote effusively about the opulent new hotel. “There seems to be no question that Dunedin can claim a hotel decidedly unequalled in the Australasian colonies.”

The hotel has a 4-star Qualmark rating, plus Enviro-Gold award. If you’re feeling lucky, the Grand Casino is also on-site, which is a boutique and swish affair, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship of the original hotel.  With three in-house restaurants serving breakfast, lunch and dinner plus 24-hour room service, you certainly won’t go hungry. I particularly enjoyed Ports O’Call Bar & Grill which offers excellent food and wine in a relaxed environment. The menu is loaded with family-friendly options, too. All guest rooms and suites include SKY TV, minibar, bathrobes, in-room safe, tea and coffee making facilities, desk, ironing facilities and free WiFi. There’s also a fitness centre, guest laundry and car parking available (for a charge) on-site. www.scenichotelgroup.co.nz

Ablaze with summer sightseeing possibilities and experiences to cherish, make your first stop Dunedin’s official website, packed with visitor tips and inspiration. www.dunedinnz.com

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.