It astounds me that Malta isn’t flashing on the tourist radar as a top-tier Mediterranean destination. I recently ventured to the Maltese islands with Insight Vacations, on their 6-day Easy Pace Malta premium guided tour. It offers the winning mix of guided sightseeing and flexi-time, allowing you to serendipitously unwrap the destination’s treats, at your own leisure. Sliema is a stylish, dreamy base when visiting Malta. Our tour group stayed at the Waterfront Hotel, an elegant 4-star property with access to the chi-chi seafront pool club, across the road.  

Strolling along its sprawling promenade, right next to the sea, soaking up the million-dollar view of Valletta's beautifully lit skyline and the Marsamxett harbour, is just the start of the seduction. At just over 2km long, the seaside promenade bustles with life, from excited ferry-trippers and ice-cream vendors to loved-up young things taking a stroll and fitness freaks pounding the pavements. Malta's cool crowd flocks here to eat, drink and party, from the vast strip of hospo venues. Architectural confections abound, from a British military base-turned-restaurant known as Il-Fortizza to 17th-century coastal watchtowers and churches. Don’t miss Balluta Bay’s chic terrace townhouses, if you’re an Art Deco fan. Flattish rocks fan out from the waterfront, so follow the locals and step down to the shimmering harbour waters, to cool off. 

Sliema's sparkle from the Waterfront Hotel. Photo / Mike Yardley

“The Front” as the locals call the promenade stretches all the way to Tigne Point – an area that features the largest conglomerate of modern high-rise architecture in the country. The fortifications at Tigne Point played an important role during the Great Siege of 1565. General Dragut, of the invading Ottoman Empire, was fatally wounded at this location, greatly affecting the outcome of the conflict. The streets beneath Tigne Point, lined with a mix of luxurious apartments and retail, are now completely pedestrianised. Close to the ferry terminal on San Duminku, stop for a pistachio or hazelnut coffee and almond & berry cake at the divine Caffe Berry. 

Head down Sir Adrian Dingli Street and lose yourself in the wondrous labyrinth of backstreets Sliema. You’ll stumble across fancy colonnades, colourful Maltese balconies, art deco and art nouveau facades that once dominated Sliema’s streetscape. Sliema, which in Maltese means peace, was originally a small fishing village, transforming into a tourist mecca in the last 50 years. The urban environment is mixed with traditional Victorian town houses, mansions and stylish villas decked with beautiful stone and wooden balconies in inner streets. There are many grocery and confectionary shops in smaller streets, which help maintain the village vibe. But the glossy apartments and hotels built along the seashore are the new face of Malta.  

Maltese Balconies in Sliema. Photo / Supplied

One of the best ways to get your bearings on Malta’s watery lay-out is to jump on board one of the numerous sightseeing ferries in Sliema, zipping you from Marsamxett Harbour to Valletta’s Grand Harbour. It’s the best way to drink in the views of fortified Manoel Island and the butterscotch-hued walled city of Valletta, from all angles. Manoel Island sits at the centre of Marsamxett Harbour, first used as an isolation centre to contain an outbreak of the plague and cholera in the 1500s. Close by is the Knights of Malta-built, 18th-century Fort Manoel, a sprawling limestone star fort that appeared in Game of Thrones. 

If you’re a fan of The Crown, you will recall that the late Queen considered her early adult years living in Malta, as being some of the happiest years of her life. Prior to ascending the throne, the young Elizabeth and Prince Philip lived in Malta between 1949 and 1951, where he was stationed as a naval officer. Just back from Marsamxett Harbour, Villa Guardamangia was their residence, a 300-year-old limestone Maltese townhouse with lavish gardens. Falling into a dilapidated state, it was recently purchased by the Maltese government and is in the process of being restored. We rocked up to the front entrance with its elegant portico, reaching out into the footpath. An essential photo-stop! 

Malta has acted as a bridge between civilisations touched by various conquerors over centuries. The mix of cultures, European, African and Arab, is evident in the manifestation of social habits and its melting-pot cuisine. I love how the word Malta originates from the Phoenician word, Maleth, which means “heaven.” Another remarkable town we ventured to on my Insight Vacations tour was Malta’s Silent City. Mdina is a fortified hill-top medieval town enclosed in bastions, in the centre of Malta. The town was the old capital of Malta, and with its narrow streets, few inhabitants and painterly views over the Island, it’s utterly bewitching.  

Mdina City Gate. Photo / Supplied

Our local specialist guide Gabriel spilled forth with illuminating anecdotes and insights, as we pottered around the mystical, medieval finery of the town. You may well recognise Mdina as King’s Landing in Game of Thrones. It’s featured in numerous flicks including the Count of Monte Cristo. Largely pedestrianised, the lack of cars amplifies the relaxing, evocative atmosphere. With a mix of Norman and Baroque architecture, it’s home to many palaces. The large and striking Cathedral of the Conversion of St. Paul lords over Mdina’s main square. It’s built on the site where St. Paul converted Publius to Christianity. Mdina swarms with nuns, including Carmelites and Benedictines. You’ll see them quietly disappearing behind grand wooden doors, as you stroll the cobbled lanes lit by dim lanterns. 

A huge highlight of my Insight Vacations tour was to dine at Trattoria AD1530, at Xara Palace Hotel. It’s honey-coloured limestone walls are movie-set perfect, bleached by the Mediterranean sun. Xara Palace was built in the 16th Century as a residence for the noble family Moscati Parisio, under the Knights of Malta. Trattoria AD 1530, at the front of the hotel, offers sublime casual dining in a picturesque setting, spilling out into the piazza. I feasted on beetroot falafel fritters; baked local seabream; and cassata siciliana for dessert. Dining par excellence! 

Trattoria AD1530. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Experience the majesty and mystery of Malta with Insight Vacations. Easy Pace Malta is 6 day premium guided tour showcasing Malta's finest features, including the golden-hued fortress capital of Valletta, the Silent City of Mdina, the waterfront strip of Sliema with optional excursions to Gozo Island and beyond. Superbly guided with local experts enriching the sightseeing, you will fall in love with Malta. For best deals and dates to suit, www.insightvacations.com/en-nz/tours/easy-pace-malta 

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.