January’s horrific wildfires in Los Angeles County have understandably raised questions about whether it’s appropriate to visit destinations close to the fire grounds and the Pacific Coast Highway. But the clarion call from LA’s tourism leaders is to remind the world, ‘we are open and would love to see you”. Over a million of the city’s jobs rely on tourism. It’s also worth bearing in mind that, while devastating, the wildfires have impacted less than 2% of Los Angeles County. Late last year, I tripped the LA coastline, lapping up the scenic beach scene in Malibu, nicknamed “Bu” by the locals and stretching across 40km of coastline. Eastern Malibu, particularly the stretch directly below Pacific Palisades, felt the force of the wildfires, with hundreds of beachfront homes reduced to ashes (Central and Western Malibu weren’t affected). 

A third of Eastern Malibu’s beachfront homes and numerous businesses were razed in the fire, across a three-mile stretch, from Topanga Beach to Duke’s Malibu restaurant. The sister eatery to Duke’s Waikiki was incredibly lucky to survive the inferno, with its neighbouring buildings destroyed. Also lost, Moonshadows, a legendary Malibu restaurant dramatically perched over the Pacific Ocean and known for its chic covered patio and seafood dishes. It had been a local landmark for 60 years. While in Malibu late last year, I enjoyed a quick brunch at the fuss-free seafood shack, Reel Inn, wolfing down local shrimps and mahi-mahi. This beloved 36-year-old roadside eatery was also destroyed in the fires.   

Reel Inn, prior to the fires. Photo / Supplied

Just down the road, I also paid a visit to the remarkable Getty Villa, a slice of ancient Rome nestled in Pacific Palisades, just above Pacific Coast Highway. (PCH). Inspired by Italy’s Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum, which was buried by the Vesuvius eruption, this replica villa houses a staggering 44,000 Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities, including the famed Victorious Youth statue. The villa narrowly escaped destruction as the Palisades Fire raged dangerously close to its hallowed grounds.  

Years of prioritising fire mitigation efforts, clearing nearby brush as well as installing an on-site water tank, proved crucial in keeping the US$10 billion collection safe from harm. As flames encroached upon the villa’s landscaping, the museum’s billion-dollar fire prevention systems sprang into action, saving the buildings and its priceless artifacts. Currently closed but likely to reopen in about a month, the Getty Villa is a one-of-a-kind destination offering ancient Greek and Roman art, tranquil gardens, reflecting pools, colonnaded walkways and ocean breezes. Admission is free but secure a timed-entry reservation in advance. www.getty.edu  

Ancient sculptures inside Getty Villa. Photo / Mike Yardley

PCH from just north of Santa Monica to Malibu Pier currently remains closed to general traffic for debris removal and gas line leak repairs. But thankfully you can access Malibu Pier and everywhere west of the Pier, by taking the inland 101 route from Los Angeles, via Calabasas. Malibu Pier is one of the coast’s great glories, a magnet for leisure seekers, from near and far. It’s bracketed by Carbon Beach on one side and Surfrider Beach on the other. The Pier was first built 120 years ago, becoming publicly accessible 90 years ago. The cape Cod-style twin towered buildings at the end, housing a bait and tackle shop and an eatery were added in the 1940s – which now houses the Malibu Farm Café. Farm fresh, local & organic ingredients are to the fore here, whether you want to grab and go from the counter, or soak up the seascape at First Point, on the reclaimed wooden picnic benches.  

It’s hard to choose who is having more fun frolicking in the breakers – the surfers or the dolphins. Café picks? You can’t go wrong with their cauliflower pizza and lobster rolls. Fishing is a huge pastime here. Chatting to the locals, they were busy reeling in halibut, corbina & mackerel. Rod rental is available at the end of the pier. At the entrance to the pier, Malibu Farm Restaurant & Bar is a fancier affair, with a whitewashed dining room and oceanside patio bar. Their freshly squeezed juice cocktails are particularly good. 

Malibu Pier. Photo / Mike Yardley

West of Malibu Pier, there’s the long expanse of Zuma Beach and a rocky foray at El Matador Beach. Breathtaking boulders and picturesque rock arches framing waves crashing onto golden shores have made El Matador hot property for commercial shoots, especially at sunset. Whether it's soaking up ocean views, exploring caves or observing hummingbirds, El Matador is a cracker. 

For a hefty dose of history, check out Adamson House. The site was originally populated by the area's Chumash Indians until the late 19th century, when it was taken over by the Rindge family, who purchased a whopping 20 miles of coastline. This is the family that over the generations lit the fuse on Malibu becoming the celebrity bolthole of today. In 1929, the family commissioned a Spanish Colonial Revival-inspired home (Adamson House), which occupies one of the most beautiful beach locations in Southern California, in the heart of Malibu.  

Peacock Fountain at Adamson House. Photo / Supplied 

It was dubbed the "Taj Mahal of Tiles" due to the incredibly extensive use of decorative ceramic tiles that lavishly adorn the exterior and interior of the mansion. There’s even an 18-metre-long imitation Persian carpet, all made of tiles.  The Rindge family also operated the famed Malibu tilework factory, so many older homes in the area feature ceramic flourishes crafted from the same factory. Malibu Pier’s frontage also has some decorative tiles. Adamson House is now a public museum, which not only offers insights into the family, but does a great job charting the heritage of the Chumash Indians. 

For a change of scenery, Malibu Country Mart, a high-end shopping plaza, is like paparazzi catnip, given the hordes of A-listers who shop and nosh here. Marmalade Café is a favourite for brunching, while Lucky's Steakhouse consistently has diners raving. Then there’s Café Habana (run by Cindy Crawford's husband). Its Cuban/Mexican fare gets mixed reviews, but it’s a fun spot for cocktails. 

By the way, if spotting stars is high on your to-do list, I’d suggest a sure-bet haunt is Nobu Malibu. Close to Malibu Pier, and back open after the fires, this elegant Japanese restaurant is a celebrity favourite. Co-founded by Robert De Niro, Clooney, DiCaprio and Bieber are regulars at the oceanside eatery. Don’t go past the Rock Shrimp Tempura with Ponzu Sauce (A lovely tart citrus-based sauce). Dinner reservations are highly recommended, but walk-ins are best for lunch on weekdays. When I noshed at Nobu, the only diner I recognised was Jimmy Fallon. But hey, it’s luck of the draw. Lady luck has certainly made her mark and left her scars on Malibu this year. Visit the beach city to shop and nosh, to help with the monumental recovery effort. 

Nobu, Malibu. Photo / Supplied

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.