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Mike Yardley: Headline experiences in Munich

Author
Mike Yardley ,
Publish Date
Sat, 12 Apr 2025, 12:33pm
Across the rooftops of Munich. Photo / Supplied
Across the rooftops of Munich. Photo / Supplied

Mike Yardley: Headline experiences in Munich

Author
Mike Yardley ,
Publish Date
Sat, 12 Apr 2025, 12:33pm

As spring began to bud and bloom in Munich, I embraced the season of renewal by joining Trafalgar on their riveting 10 day Imperial Europe guided coach tour, which strings together a necklace of enchanting destinations. It’s a cracking introduction to the richness of Central Europe – kind of like a glorified greatest hits tour. Introducing our ebullient travel director Kate, who was a seasoned pro at bringing destinations alive with extraordinary story-telling and a wickedly dry, irreverent sense of humour. She rightly suggested we approach the tour like a lavish buffet, with the opportunity to dabble with a variety of treats.  

In addition to the excellent included sightseeing, there’s plenty of free time allowing you the flexibility to explore at your own place. It’s a winning balance. Starting and ending in Munich, the irresistible highlights reel includes Prague, Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest and Salzburg. Our convivial band of travellers from the USA, Canda, Australia and Singapore gelled faster than the casing of a bratwurst, as we strolled the sophisticated streets of the Bavarian capital on an introductory walking tour.  

Kate acquainted us with a swag of intriguing, storied and simply sensational landmarks and attractions, including Marienplatz, the heart of the old town since the city was founded nearly 1000 years ago. Yes, we admired the glockenspiel and its cherished puppetry performance. Additional highlights included one of the world’s most celebrated opera houses, the Bayerische Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera) - steeped in 350 years of history. In a city teeming with palaces and museums, the Residenz Palace is still a compelling and imposing site, formerly the Bavarian royalty’s seat of power, edged by the lovely, leafy Hofgarten.  

Marienplatz and travel director Kate with Traflgar group. Photo / Mike Yardley

Kate remarked that Residenz hosts Munich’s best Christmas market, with the adjoining streets garlanded in crystal chandeliers. For a view over the city’s red-tiled rooftops, head to St. Peter's Church, located just behind Marienplatz. I like to get my fill of old churches and Kate implored me to experience a true hidden treasure, Asamkirche on Sendlinger Strasse, where “your jaw will drop to the floor.” She wasn’t wrong. This masterpiece 18th century rococo church is a dazzler, a jewel box of frescoes, sculptures and extravagant stuccowork that was created by two brothers as a private chapel. It was so good they were forced to make it a public church.  

Further afield, it was a thrill to see the old Olympic Park and Allianz Stadium, home to Bayern Munich.  The massive stadium’s white outer shell is made of air cushions that are illuminated in splashy red during Bayern home games. Another hot haunt in the warmer months is the Isar River, where the Bavarian birthday suit brigade flocks in their thousands to sunbathe and swim. You have been warned! 

We especially loved the old town’s "Platzl" neighbourhood, where the magnificent town houses and cobblestones create a cozy, timeless ambience. Platzl is also home to the world-famous Hofbrauhaus, a powerhouse of Munich's beer tradition since 1589. It’s readily apparent how many Munchners are Bavarians first and Germans second. This rich and powerful state was of course once its own kingdom, only becoming part of Germany a century ago, and it zealously retains an independent state of mind. Within the eye-catching neo-Renaissance building, there were no shortage of locals dressed in traditional Bavarian attire. Hello, lederhosen!  

Hofbrauhaus beer hall in Munich. Photo / Supplied

Our Trafalgar group also ventured to Zum Franziskaner, for an included dinner, feasting on port knuckle and beef roulade, plus savouring a classic Bavarian lager, Lowenbrau. This is a quintessential Helles lager and Lowenbrau has been brewing since 1383! The Reinbold family transformed a small tavern into this powerhouse traditional venue nearly 60 years ago and it’s a hospitality beacon. This buzzing beer hall pulls a huge crowd of locals – so you know it’s going to be good.  

Kate also pointed out a variety of sites, intricately linked to the rise of Adolf Hitler, in the birthplace city of the Nazi Party. Munich was also the headquarters, and command centre of the Third Reich. As she soberly noted, the city’s soul is still troubled by its Nazi legacy and struggles to cleanse itself completely. Hitler’s imprint lingers. Only recently, an eternal flame to the victims of Nazi persecution was established, because of sustained local resistance. Pointedly, the Documentation Centre which focuses on all things related to the Nazi Party and its shameful rise in Munich was deliberately located next to Hitler’s offices, the former “Fuhrer Building.” This is where the infamous Munich Agreement in 1938 was signed by the UK’s Neville Chamberlain.  

Fuhrer Building in Munich. Photo / TripAdvisor

From the reality-defying decadence of fairy-tale castles to the horror and solemnity of one of Europe’s most notorious concentration camps, there are two stand-out daytrips that should be added on to a Munich stay, if you have time. Just an hour out of Munich by train, Neuschwanstein Castle is a bucket-lister. Commissioned by King Ludwig II, this fairy tale castle overlooks the picturesque Hohenschwangau valley and was the inspiration for Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty castle. Construction began in 1869, but given the exact tastes of King Ludwig II, progress was painfully slow. For example, it took 14 carpenters four and a half years just to complete the woodwork in Ludwig's bedroom.  

The King was an immense devotee of Richard Wagner, even going as far as naming the castle after a character in one of Wagner's operas—the Swan Knight.  Tapestries depicting scenes from Wagner's opera festoon many interiors of this whimsical pleasure palace.  Construction was halted on the castle and Ludwig II was removed by power due to intrigue within his own cabinet. The King himself was rarely concerned with matters of state and was sometimes thought to suffer from hallucinations. However, what frightened the cabinet were the rumours of their possible removal. Under Bavarian law, a King could be removed from power if he were found unfit to rule, so his cabinet deposed him.   

Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria. Photo / Supplied

However, Ludwig's mysterious death—ruled a suicide at the time—suggests that the cabinet was not content to merely remove him from power. This jigsaw piece of mystery endures, adding to the atmosphere of intrigue at Neuschwanstein. Only fourteen rooms were finished before Ludwig's death and my absolute favourite is the throne room, the supreme picture of opulence, with intricate frescos of angels decorating the walls. There is no throne, only a raised dais, due to Ludwig II’s removal before a throne could be built. This amazing landmark was bathed in snow on my recent visit, however, whatever time of year you plan a visit, Neuschwanstein is unfailingly spectacular.  

For a complete change of scenery, take the short 20 minute train trip from Munich to Dachau, and the poignant memorial site of the Dachau Concentration Camp, the first and longest running Nazi concentration camp. The vast gallery of photographic displays, the spartan cell blocks, bunk beds, crematorium and gas chamber all add to the powerful sense of emotion, when visiting this camp.  

Front gate of Dachau Camp. Photo / Supplied

More than 41,000 of the 200,000-plus prisoners lost their lives here. The former camp has become more than just a grisly memorial: it's now a place where people of all nations meet to reflect upon the egregious sins of the past and its enduring impact on the world. What I found particularly striking on my last trip to Dachau, was the overwhelming number of young visitors exploring the site of so much horror. 

Tour Differently. Travelling with Trafalgar means you won’t just see the world – but you’ll experience it with authenticity at the forefront. Tour adventurously, from the must-sees to hidden secrets, and tour locally with those priceless encounters with the locals. Trafalgar’s 10 day Imperial Europe tour has a starting price of $4,422 per person, twin share and includes a savings of up to $600 per person. Valid on select travel dates June, July and August 2025. Subject to availability. Call 0800 484 333, visit www.trafalgar.com or see your local Travel Agent. 

Cathay Pacific is spreading its wings in Europe, launching direct flights to Munich in June and Brussels in August, which will increase its reach into Europe by flying to 11 destinations. Cathay Pacific’s Munich flights will be operated by advanced A350-900s, as they do between Auckland and Hong Kong. The aircraft offer fully flat beds in Business, spacious seats in Premium Economy and comfort in Economy. The cabin air quality is decidedly better on A350s, and you’ll notice how much quieter these big birds are. The seatback entertainment system kept me suitably engaged with a head swirl of premium movie and TV selections, live news channels - all in vivid 4K, plus in-flight WiFi is available. www.cathaypacific.com  

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller and can be heard every Saturday with Jack Tame on Newstalk ZB. 

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