As much as hospitality can be a fluid and fickle industry with a lot of churn, it’s fair to say that Wellington has been buffeted by some tough times lately. Business closures have been tough on the capital’s self-confidence over the past 12 months, particularly when some legendary establishments have also ended up closing their doors. 

But I was encouraged to detect a clear upswing in morale amongst a swag of bar and restaurant operators, as I struck out on an urban food safari recently. With over 400 restaurants competing for your affection, the treasury of culinary temptations is phenomenal. 

A great starting point is to let someone else curate your grazing list. The Big Foody Food Tours is a cracking introduction to great eats in Wellington, blending culinary insights with a side serving of city history and sightseeing on foot. Over the course of three hours, my ebullient guide Tor passionately shared some of her favourite haunts with our small group, which consisted of a lovely couple from Toronto Janice and Donald, and yours truly. www.thebigfoody.com  

Go hungry because we stuffed ourselves stupid on a stomach-stretching odyssey, over the course of five stops. First up, brunch at Karaka Café. This convivial waterfront eatery, complete with lawn and bean bags, is owned and operated by the Retimanu whānau of Māori and Pacifica heritage, with a bilingual menu that accentuates indigenous kai. I happily devoured a Hāngī Hash, topped with pork & watercress sausage and served with a revitalising Taha tonic of Mānuka, kawakawa and ginger.   

Mike with Donald and Janice at Karaka Cafe. Photo / Mike Yardley

You may have heard that Wellington has an insatiable obsession with cheese scones and a go-to for some of the city’s finest is Pickle & Pie. This perky café does a very good buttermilk scone with a pickle on the side. It’s a strangely stunning mix. We took a wander down Hannahs Laneway, home to the Wellington Chocolate Factory, which pumps out over 6000 bars a week.  

Another unmissable in the laneway is Golding’s Free Dive. This whimsical little craft beer bar is largely decorated from recycled materials, with plastic buckets for lampshades and awnings made from old skis. Golding's Free Dive is a free house - meaning they aren’t beholden to any brewery, and they constantly showcase a range of fresh brews.  True to the collaborative spirit of this laneway, you can also order pizza from Pizza Pomodoro (across the courtyard) who will deliver it to your table. Nice! 

From there, we stumbled into one of the capital’s hidden gems, which many locals vow and declare serves up the city’s best dumplings. You could be forgiven for ambling right past this non-descript shop on Cuba St, but Rams Crazy Dumplings Restaurant is a revelation. Order up 12 dumplings for $17 and it may well be the best meal you’ve savoured in months. Served in pool of homemade chilli oil, order the pork with chives dumplings, with a sweet vinegary kick that only enhances these hand-folded pockets of deliciousness. 

A bowl of dumplings at Rams. Photo / Mike Yardley

The climactic closer to our fabulous tour was a few doors down at Scopa Pizzeria. Opened by the Breslin brothers nearly 10 years ago, we feasted on the finest melt-in-your-mouth calamari and classic Italian wood-fired pizza. Best of all, Scopa’s legendary Italian hot chocolate – thick, rich and unctuous like custard. They’re so thick you can eat them with a spoon. 

Another Cuba St crowd-favourite to add to your bingo card is Ombra. Styled on an informal back-street Venetian bacaro, the intimate, old-school romanticism instantly impresses, from the period curtained windows to the shelves stacked with Campari bottles. Nearly 50 small dishes are featured on the menu, like Baccala Mantecato (whipped salted cod on crusty bread.) Don’t miss the slow-cooked duck risotto with mascarpone. 

For a complete palette switch in the heart of Cuba St, make tracks to Kisa, which proudly champions the best of New Zealand produce through a Middle Eastern menu. The mezze plates are so divine, anchored by lip-smacking kebabs, whether your choice of meat is wapiti, tahr or lamb. Dessert is a triumph. I still dream about their Rosewater muhallebi custard. This almond milk-based pudding is enriched with pomegranate syrup, sour cherries and saffron pashmak.  

The mezze platter at Kisa. Photo / Mike Yardley

Fun with steamed buns? It’s got to be Mr. Go's! Located in colourful little Eva St, Mr Go’s crafts exquisite Asian hawker-style street food with a Kiwi twist, using seasonal New Zealand ingredients.  With a galaxy of drool-worthy options on the menu, decision-making is formidable, but I highly recommend starting with a twice-cooked pork belly bao, with hoisin, pickled cucumber and spring onions. Complement that with a couple of sides, like cream cheese wontons and mushroom dumplings. It’s a flavour-throbbing street food fiesta.   

Sticking with the Asian vibes, Dragonfly is a dreamy little haven for a cheeky nightcap or two, tucked away in an atmospheric bamboo courtyard, off Courtney Place. Their crafted contemporary Asian cocktails draw quite the crowd. 

Wine time? I’m a big fan of Noble Rot, an edgy and inventive venue established nearly ten years ago by an incredibly talented group of sommeliers and restaurateurs, eager to imbue the capital with a specialist wine bar. With the wonderful wine regions of Marlborough and Wairarapa sandwiching Wellington, why not?  You’ll find Noble Rot in Swan Lane, jutting off Cuba Street. Firmly focused on using locally sourced seasonal produce, it’s all about shared food and small plates, in addition to raw bar awash with oh-so fresh seafood and charcuterie to pair with every drop. The extensive wine list understandably showcases New Zealand product, with a special selection of European wines.   

Noble Rot Wine Bar. Photo / WellingtonNZ

Where to stay? Check into the wow-factor property that was ingeniously shifted to clear the way for Te Papa, and continues to sparkle with its art-filled distinctiveness. QT Wellington Hotel continues to capture the world’s imagination for its wondrous collection of artworks, opulent décor, distinctively designed guestrooms, celebrated hospitality and award-winning cuisine at Hippopotamus restaurant, with the most extravagant selection of gins in Wellington. More than just a hotel, QT Wellington is an unabashed cultural playground, underpinned by its eccentric and ever-expansive art collection. The lobby alone boasts New Zealand's largest privately owned art collection, sporting wondrous works by the likes of Dick Frizzell, Seraphine Pick, Liz Maw and BMD. 

With art and design at the core of the hotel’s identity, 19 Kiwi artists unleashed their artistic genius across the entire fourth floor, in all 25 guestrooms, with bespoke artwork gracing the walls, balconies and ceilings. The ever-evolving hotel is committed to continuing to grow its own art collection, staying true to the hotel’s history with the accent on eclectic and immersive art. A QT Wellington stay is the chance to luxuriously bask in the lap of creative brilliance, with all the frills and creature comforts the hotel is legendary for. Push the boat out and bag a QT Gallery Harbourview King, with a private balcony facing out to dreamy watery embrace of Wellington Harbour. Another heroic capital canvas! Truly distinctive hotels are what great breaks are all about and QT Wellington is in a class of its own. Make a date with all that art and effervescent hospitality! www.qthotels.com  

Eye-catching art at QT Hotel. Photo / Mike Yardley 

I rocked my way around the Wellington region in a trusty hybrid Ford Puma, courtesy of Ezi Car Rental. I thoroughly enjoyed the Ezi experience, where excellent vehicles, super sharp prices and fast & friendly service are all part of the package. Ezi Car Rental operates an extensive network from 24 locations across the country. They’re everywhere you want to be with vehicles to suit your specific needs. Head to www.ezicarrental.co.nz  

To stay up to date with everything hip and happening in the Capital of Cool, head to www.wellingtonnz.com  

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.