Plan a summer escapade to the hot-tub of southern hospitality in irrepressible Dunedin. You’d struggle to find a comparably sized city that serves up such a spoil of fabulously distinctive visitor experiences. Fanning out from the city, the long, plumped and ranging finger of Otago Peninsula, fringed with beaches, scalloped by bays, carpeted in lush pastures, furnished in dry stone walls and studded in volcanic peaks is a world unto itself. Bountiful, bucolic, an urban escape-hatch. Richly blessed with flippered and feathered possibilities, the wildlife alone is a perennial banner attraction, but the peninsula and harbour also abound with invigorating trails. 

A supreme way of appreciating the rich tapestry of Otago Harbour is to hit the pedals and cycle your way around the water’s edge on Te Aka Otakou/ The Otago Vine. Finally completed last year, this riveting purpose-built trail for cyclists and walkers spans a 32km loop. The west harbour path from the city to Portobello and the sublime peninsula is called Te Awa Otakou/The Ocean River, while Te Ara Moana/The Ocean Path hugs the eastern edge of the harbour, linking the city to Port Chalmers. Best of all, to complete the circuit, Port to Port Cruises operates short and sweet ferry crossings, allowing you to cross the water with your bike from Port Chalmers to Portobello.

Scenic cycling around the harbour. Photo / dunedinnz

I have a major soft spot for cute-as-a-button Portobello and its peaceful village vibe. Just past the treasured Portobello Hotel, which my great great uncle was once the publican of, I followed the signposts to Okia Reserve and Victory Beach, the peninsula’s longest beach. Before reaching this 3km-long beach, the 20 minute walk from the carpark leads you to the striking Pyramids, two prism-shaped volcanic rock formations. The views from the top of Little Pyramid are ravishing, while the beach which takes its name from the partially visible 1861 shipwreck of the SS Victory, is home to hoiho, fur seals and sea lions. Keep your distance! Portobello is also the gateway to ‘the real’ Otago Peninsula - with world-acclaimed attractions like Larnach Castle and the Royal Albatross Colony at Taiaroa Head. 

I made my way up to the Royal Observatory Box where several dozen chicks, bulging fluffy balls of snow-white feathers, speckled the headland, waiting for their parents to return from sea with a squid smoothie. It was enthralling to savour these majestic seabirds up-close, in the world’s sole mainland albatross colony. The passionate guides captivated me with commanding insights on the northern royals, who will leave the colony on a two week day journey to the Chilean coastline, eventually returning home to breed on that wind-swept cliff they clumsily departed from, after several years of far-flung foraging at sea. The sound of pealing bells still rings out triumphantly from Dunedin churches and schools when the first juvenile returns for the next breeding season. The birds can reach a speed of 120km, courtesy of their awe-inspiring 3 metre wingspan. 

Royal Albatroll at Taiaroa Head. Photo / dunedinnz

Just up the hill from Portobello, there’s no overlooking the crown jewel, Larnach Castle, built in 1871 by the merchant baron and politician, William Larnach. No expense was spared, with the finest materials deployed. Still privately owned, the Barker family purchased the home over 50 years ago, dedicating decades to the castle’s restoration, furnishing the palatial landmark with a trove of original New Zealand period furniture and antiques. 

You could not wish for better custodians of history and the Larnach legacy than the Barker family. When they took possession of the rundown castle, it was devoid of furniture and many of the glorious architectural features were missing. Studiously researching the original décor, artwork and furnishings, the castle’s impeccable restoration has been undertaken while keeping the faith with its original glory. I particularly adore the Music Room. Like the home, the expansive hillside grounds were also in a state of extreme neglect, when the Barkers took possession. But today, just like the splendour of the castle, the 35 acres of grounds and gardens are a visual symphony, a wonderland of vistas, secret paths, radiant flower beds, hedge rows and trees. So much so, they’re feted as a “Garden of International Significance” by the New Zealand Gardens Trust. 

Lanarch Castle gardens. Photo / dunedinnz

Hop aboard a harbour ferry crossing with Port to Port, whisking you across the China blue water to historic Port Chalmers, backed by indented verdant ranges and mighty Mt. Cargill. lf you want more time on the water, book a Port to Port Wildlife Cruise. The charming and enterprising Rachel McGregor established this venture, which takes you out past the heads into the Pacific Ocean, where a vast menagerie of species had flocked to feed on the tide line. Over the course of 90 minutes, we gawped in awe at the wheeling aerodynamics, theatrical sea landings and take-offs of five different albatross species, alongside close encounters with shags, shearwaters, oystercatchers, red-billed gulls, before marvelling over the hollering sealions and snoozing fur seals. It’s a photogenic feast of coastal wildlife, backed by the beauty of Taiaroa Head, while Rachel’s perky, incisive narration greatly enhances the encounters. A class act. www.porttoport.co.nz 

Head up the hill from Port Chalmers to the ‘cloud forest’ of Orokonui Ecosanctuary. As the welcome winter sun illuminated the sanctuary, the reaching views across Silverpeaks Scenic Reserve and Blueskin Bay are deliciously soothing for the soul. Orokonui is the largest predator free forest in the South Island and this super safe conservation refuge was teeming with endangered wildlife, including takahe and South Island brown kiwi. As | casually tootled through the forest-draped walking tracks, a roll call of native birdlife warbled, fluttered, preened and played up. The puffed-up male tui and bellbirds were in full operatic cry, as were the cheeky kaka. The unmistakeable whoosh of a low-flying kereru was swiftly followed by the bizarre spectacle of brilliantly-named brown creeper birds stealthily creeping between the branches. Orokonui provides a full-barrelled fix for twitchers and the bush walks are splendid. www.orokonui.co.nz  

Orokonui Eco-sanctuary. Photo / Mike Yardley

Back in Port Chalmers, I had walked and cycled up quite the appetite. Just around the corner, Carey’s Bay Historic Hotel is a blissful spot to savour the scenery and sublime local produce. Hello, seafood. Port Chalmers serves up spectacular viewing points. Check out Centenary Lookout, Hotere Garden Oputae and Flagstaff Lookout to determine which spot gets the gong for viewissimo. Constructed from the mast of a condemned pirate ship, the flagstaff, was the home of the first publicly funded timeball in the South Island in the 1860s. This is my favourite viewpoint down onto the quaint main street of the port, which looks like Toy Town from this perch. 

If you’re in need of a re-caffeination, Union Co Café is a cracker spot — named in honour of the Union Steamship Company which operated here from 1875. Across the road, unleash your inner-salty dog and immerse yourself in Dunedin’s glorious seafaring heritage at the Port Chalmers Maritime Museum. It only reopened two months ago after a sparkling upgrade and extension. The 1877 Heritage Category 1 listed building is now a light-filled space light — thanks to the refurbished clerestory windows, a new glass extension and a wide internal laneway linking the museum to the Port Otago Annex where you can watch operations from the mezzanine. The interior walls are covered in story-filled panels and there are countless artefacts —big and small— on display. I particularly loved the “Wall of Ships”, gazing up the 12 metre high wall of ship models, collected over the years by the Port Chalmers Historical Society. Within the laneway is a wonderful ABCedarium, which is a series of photos, artefacts and information, built around each letter of the alphabet. A plaque outside the museum marks the spot where the first Scottish settlers came ashore, from the John Wickliffe, in 1848. 

Scenic Port Chalmers. Photo / dunedinnz

Riding back to the city from Port Chalmers, a huge highlight is crossing the Blanket Bay bridge — a 600m long boardwalk, suspended above the water. Bike hire? Get cycling with Bike House for an unforgettable exploration of the city’s trails and stupendous harbour. With flexible options for a 3-hour or full-day hire, they offer the perfect opportunity to absorb the grand-scale nature of the harbour trails, revelling in this elemental playground and its bounty of experiences. Bike House is at 67 Stuart Street. 

Put yourself at the centre of the action with a great stay at Scenic Hotel Southern Cross, available on Booking.com. Offering accommodation, flights, bookable attractions and car hires, Booking.com takes the stress out of travelling all on one platform. Sign up to Booking.com’s Genius program to unlock even bigger travel discounts and rewards. www.booking.com  

Ablaze with summer sightseeing and experiences to cherish, make your first stop Dunedin’s official website, packed with visitor tips and inspiration. www.dunedinnz.com  

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.