After getting my rocks off exploring the geological grandeur of the Waitaki district’s geopark, I reacquainted myself with a town that became my first home away home, just over 30 years ago. I began my radio career in Ōamaru in 1991, living there for a couple of years as I learned the ropes on the local community station. It was a town that I fast feel in love with – and the love-affair endures.   

Ōamaru is undeniably one of New Zealand’s greatest towns, with its stately and seductive good looks, stirring local wildlife, astonishing heritage treasures, and alluring artisan verve. And it’s all anchored with a striking sense of community pride and passion. Eye-catching sights and an embracing spirit are what Ōamaru is all about (don’t miss a selfie with the beloved Humpty Dumpty statue in the stupendous public gardens). Whether you’re travelling as a couple, or enjoying a happy family holiday, Ōamaru delivers ins spades with a wealth of enticing experiences. 

Bathed in the golden glow of the setting sun, the streetscapes are bewitching, housing a hive of temptations, from the science fiction meets Victoriana fun of Steampunk, to the creatives, craft brewers and boutiques within the harbourside precinct. There are so many inter-linking strands that weave the Waitaki geopark story together, bridging the past with the present, like how farmers taming the land chanced upon the limestone fossils, while their bountiful produce powered the development of Ōamaru’s port. Ancient penguin bones keep being found in the limestone, powerfully connecting with Oamaru’s magnificent colony of little blue penguins, on the foreshore.

Little blue penguins in Ōamaru. Photo / Tourism Waitaki

When I first started in radio in Ōamaru in 1991, the colony was a fledgling volunteer-led initiative, with just thirty breeding pairs. Today, there’s several hundred breeding pairs, so the nightly penguin parade of the birds returning home to their nest after feeding at sea, is an extravagant and intimate affair. They are so close you can virtually touch them, as they scamper up the rocks like nervous Nigels, navigating their way around bellowing fur seals, to reach their tiny homes. It’s a riveting twilight encounter. The summer months is peak season for the nightly penguin parade. Currently, there’s over 350 penguins coming ashore each night to return home. 

Just adjacent to the penguin colony, the world’s largest colony of Otago Shags have commandeered the historic curving Sumpter Wharf, which played an early role in the world’s frozen meat shipments, after the famed first shipment from Port Chalmers on SS Dunedin. This elegantly curvaceous wharf, graced by white-painted handrails, welcomed the biggest oceangoing freighters running between New Zealand and Britain. SS Dunedin became a regular sight in Oamaru, lugging carcasses to England until it sailed into oblivion in 1890, presumed lost around Cape Horn.  

Today – this decrepit wharf is all about the birds and the shagathon is just another gob-stopping spectacle on the Ōamaru foreshore. There’s history at every turn. One of the wooden sheds near Sumpter Wharf explains, Ōamaru has an Antarctic connection. In early 2013 the town marked the 100th anniversary of a boat from the Terra Nova breaking the news from Ōamaru of the death of British explorer Robert Falcon Scott and his companions. Peckish or thirsty? Overlooking the harbour, Del Mar eatery and beach bar is the perfect family-friendly spot for food and drinks from lunch till late.  

Otago Shags on Sumpter Wharf. Photo / Mike Yardley 

The creamy pure texture of Ōamaru Stone underpins the classic good looks of the historic town’s vast trove of architectural treasures. The southern end of Thames St is lined with glorious stone confections, including the neo-classical columned splendour of stately old banks to the sumptuous Ōamaru Opera House. But just around the corner, in Harbour Street, enjoy a frolic through New Zealand’s best preserved Victorian commercial streetscape. This evocative sweep stands like a siren to the past and the late 19th century boom era in frozen meat exports to the world. But these time-honoured totems are living and vital today, brilliantly restored and repurposed, brimming with enticing galleries, artisans, retailers and hospitality hot spots. There are also fabulous guided walking tours, spilling with stories about the precinct’s proud history.  

Don’t miss Craftwork Brewery and Tasting Room. This beloved Belgian-inspired brewery produces Farmhouse, Abbey, and Barrel-aged sour beer – all worth a dabble in Craftwork’s delight tasting room in the heart of the Victorian Precinct. Pair the Belgian-style beers with cheese, from the variety of small-batch cow, goat, and sheep’s cheese offerings at Craftwork. 

A stirring hospitality treasure, on the corner of Tyne and Harbour Street is the Criterion Hotel Bar and Eatery. The Criterion first opened in 1877, designed in elaborate Italianate style. The flagship building is looking resplendent and proudly shares its storied history on its walls, with loads of historic photos. Elegantly and thoughtfully furnished, there’s William Morris wallpaper in the bar area. Under its current enterprising owners, Brenda and Katrina, the heritage establishment has been enjoying a new lease on life for the past couple of years.   

Criterion Hotel Bar & Eatery. Photo / Tohu Whenua

The bar and eatery specialises in Asian-fusion and Mediterranean-style tapas dining, utilising the best in New Zealand produce from 21-day aged Merino lamb shoulders to award-winning local Whitestone Cheese and High Country Salmon. Whistle up the Alps to Ocean Platter, for a chance to sample a bit of everything. You must try a Criterion Black Doris Plum Cider, which was a collaboration project with local brewers’ Scotts Brewing Co. And sweet tooths will revel in a new dessert creation, the Pinky Bar. It consists of salted caramel semifreddo elegantly sandwiched between pink marshmallow and a decadent chocolate & coconut biscuit base. 

Also based in the Victorian Precinct is Steampunk HQ, New Zealand’s premier steampunk experience. It is wacky, whimsical and eccentric. Steampunk HQ’s emblematic attraction is full-scale train engine that spits fire and billows smoke, outside on the street front. Inside, a museum of contraptions & bizarre machinery featuring heavy use of copper, gears, pipes & gas cylinders, as well as an ensemble of skeletal sculptures are lit by flickering lights & accompanied by film, projection & sound. A back door leads to a large yard with projects in various stages of being steampunked. As their website tellingly says, “Steampunk HQ must be experienced rather than explained.”  It’s utterly escapist. The annual Steampunk Festival is a rollicking three day bash, held over King’s Birthday weekend. 

Steampunk HQ and train engine, Ōamaru. Photo / Mike Yardley

Fromage fans fawn over Whitestone Cheese, a mainstay of the New Zealand premium cheese market for nearly 40 years. Bob and Sue Berry founded the company in 1987 and are still at the helm. This globally recognised artisan cheese company boasts over 25 different cheeses and the best way to immerse yourself in the fully glory of Whitestone Cheese is to head to their Diner & Deli on Thames St. Whitestone Cheese is at the heart of every dish, from gourmet burgers to cheese rolls. Try a High Cheese at the diner – but be sure to include their Mount Domett Double Cream Brie. Guided factory tours with lashings of cheese tastings are also available.  

Just north of Oamaru, Riverstone Kitchen sits alongside the lavish homeware emporium of Riverstone Country Giftshops - and the spectacular crowning addition, Riverstone Castle, which is open for tours, four times a day, from Thursday to Monday. The castle is the creation of Dot and Neil Smith, built from Ōamaru stone. Surrounded by a lake and set on the Smith’s dairy farm behind Riverstone Kitchen, it makes for a dramatic backdrop to the rest of the Riverstone complex. 

Riverstone Castle at sunset. Photo / Riverstone Castle

Since returning home to his parents’ farm in 2006, Bevan Smith established the highly decorated Riverstone Kitchen, wrapped in food producing gardens, where his sparkling food ethos is powered by sustainability and hyper-local produce.  The menu celebrates the seasons – but many locals told me they regularly head to Riverstone simply for the cakes. They are exquisitely crafted. My tip? Order up a slice of Gooseberry & Blackcurrant shortcake with vanilla bean ice cream. It’s irresistible.  

Where to stay? There’s nothing quite like the thrill of discovering and savouring a distinctive accommodation experience, anchored by a great back-story and helmed by hospitality pros. Introducing Casa Nova House, a salivating luxury bed and breakfast experience in Ōamaru. This sublime stone mansion, nestled in spacious grounds with sea views, was the first stone dwelling to be built in the district in 1861. Originally built for an early run holder, Mark Noble, this grand house has been impeccably restored and revitalised by your hosts, Katrina McLarin and Brenda Laverick, who also breathed new life into the Criterion Hotel. This dynamic duo clearly have an incomparable eye for detail, because the property’s designer furnishings and décor are a masterclass in luxury heritage living. The renovation cost close on $1 million. 

Charming guestrooms at Casa Nova House. Photo / Mike Yardley

There are three stylishly designed and distinctive guest rooms located on the first floor of this category one listed historic property, loaded with creature comforts. They include free wireless internet, a smart TV with complimentary Netflix, Freeview and mirroring capabilities, plus the complimentary bathroom amenities by Marihi Aotearoa. The evocative Burns Sitting Room is also available for you to use throughout the day, with complimentary tea and coffee on-hand. Katrina whipped me a ravishing breakfast which is also served in the Burns Sitting Room. Her secret ingredient yoghurt is quite the hit! Brenda and Katrina are exceptional hosts, nailing the art of personable hospitality – always wonderfully warm and engaging without ever being intrusive.  

Last year, Casa Nova House was decorated with a five-star gold Qualmark award. Qualmark praised the mansion as “exemplary” for best practice of top-tier hospitality, and describing the property as an “immaculate Category 1 protected historic building” with outstanding décor and cleanliness. Be sure to check out Katrina’s cracking podcast, The Last Resort, which spills forth with amazing anecdotes and insights on their tour de force over the past five years, purchasing and renovating this stately mansion, changing their lives and taking this leap of faith. Their remarkable adventure warrants a TV show! You will absolutely adore staying in this hidden and freshly polished gem. casanovahouse.co.nz

From the Victorian streetscapes, penguins and culinary treats of Ōamaru to the remarkable landforms and rich history of the Waitaki Whitestone Geopark, summer road-tripping the Waitaki district is a sure-fire recipe for golden holiday adventures.  For more trip inspiration head to waitakinz.com  

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack tame Saturday Mornings.