South Westland’s awe-inspiring natural splendour seems to grow in stature the further south you go. There’s a fairytale quality to the sense of escapism, as you drive through those long and leafy highway glades, where the forest canopy drapes across the road. Before savouring Glacier Country, have a dabble in the irresistibly laidback hamlet of Ōkārito. It’s like a world unto itself. On arrival, you’re rewarded with stunning panoramic views of the towering jaws of the Southern Alps, the roar of the ocean, the magnificent lagoon, striking sea cliffs and vast, lush forest in this heart-stealing eco-wonderland.  

Strolling the village and discovering its spoil of historic nuggets is a delight, including the restored wharf, glowing in the golden rays of daybreak. But the piece de resistance is unquestionably Ōkārito Lagoon, New Zealand’s largest unmodified wetland. This sprawling estuarial lagoon teems with birdlife and is best experienced on a kayak tour with Gemma, Baz and the team from Ōkārito Kayaks. This locally-owned business has been renting kayaks and guiding travellers on Ōkārito Lagoon for over thirty years. 

Kayaking on Ōkārito Lagoon. Photo / Supplied

In the morning calm, you’ll see so many of the 70 bird species feeding in the lagoon - from royal spoonbills, godwits, terns and oystercatchers to pied stilts, Caspian terns, paradise ducks…and best of all, the great white heron. The lagoon is their main feeding ground for the kotuku. It's also the permanent home for some of the population, after they’ve left the nest, so you’ll see them year-round on Ōkārito Lagoon. 

A great base for all your wild adventures is Franz Josef township, which is also home to the West Coast Wildlife Centre. They operate the official breeding programme for the world's rarest kiwi, the Rowi. It’s well worth a visit to check out their stirring work. Previously considered a variety of Brown Kiwi, the Rowi was recognised as a distinct species just over 20 years ago. Since first opening in 2010, the West Coast Wildlife Centre has safely hatched hundreds and hundreds of kiwi chicks. Six years ago, several dozen Kiwi were released into a new DOC sanctuary in the Omoeroa ranges near Lake Matheson, just out of Fox Glacier. I adore the magnificent mirror of Matheson, reputed to be New Zealand’s most photographed lake. Get up early for a dawn jaunt or end your day with a lakeside stroll at dusk, and you might even hear the kiwi calls reverberate across its reflective waters.  

Nestled in ancient rimu and kahikatea forest and revered for its mirror views of Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman, its exceptional reflecting properties are due to the dark brown tannins leaching into the water leached from the forest floor. Keep your fingers crossed for calm, clear weather that are the essential ingredients for the mirror magic. It’s a 40 minute return walk from the car park to the Jetty Viewpoint. For a longer leg-stretcher, plump for the 90 minute Lake Circuit route which leads you to the View of Views at the top end of the lake, plus Reflection Island. The painterly spectacle of a pristine mountain reflection, shrouded in native foliage, is what mesmerising travel moments are all about. 

Glacier Country glory at Lake Matheson. Photo / Supplied

Providing some stiff competition to Lake Matheson, the Lake Gault walkway is an alluring alternative, or added extra! It takes you higher up on an extended 3-5 hour 8km return hike, threading through ancient podocarp forest to reach Lake Gault. Pray to the weather gods and you’ll be rewarded with sizzling views of Aoraki/Mt Cook, Mt Tasman and the Southern Alps, mirrored in the lake waters. The track starts and finishes right next to the Lake Matheson Café and Reflectionz Gallery. 

The twin glaciers, Franz Josef and Fox are revered as being two of the most accessible glaciers in the world, plunging down from the Southern Alps, wrapped in rainforest, almost to sea level. Descending from 3000 metres, Franz Josef Glacier terminates just 240 metres above sea level, and just 19km from the coast. The terminal face of Fox, which is the longest of the West Coast glaciers, is only 12km from the Tasman Sea. It’s what makes Franz Josef and Fox so exceptional – you’d struggle to find many glaciers so close to the ocean.  There are a multitude of ways to commune with these wondrous ribbons of ice. From the valley floor, the walking tracks to the terminal face viewpoints will take you about 30 minutes to complete at Franz Josef and 90 minutes at Fox.  

But to get intimate, up-close or even to set foot on these glaciers, whether you’re heli-hiking, heli-ice climbing, or hankering for a scenic flight, there’s plenty of tour operators touting specials in the main street of both townships. If you’re up for on-the-ground adventure, I’d definitely recommend an ice climb on Franz Josef Glacier. Its steeper gradient gives rise to more crevasses and ice caves, increasing your odds of savouring the universal allure of blue ice. One of nature’s great illusions, blue ice occurs when snow falls on a glacier, is compressed and enlarges the ice crystals, creating the blue hue.  

Climbing Fox Glacier. Photo / Supplied

Speaking of walks, another great jaunt in Franz Josef is the 1 hour 20 min return walk to Callery Gorge, where you’ll be following in the footsteps of goldminers on this historic route, which unfurls as a rainforest and electric blue glacial water symphony. If you have little ones in tow, a splendid little walk leads you to Peter’s Pool. Starting from the car park on Glacier Access Road, this fully accessible walk winds through the rainforest to a small kettle lake, which was formed by ice melting amongst glacial moraine about 200 years ago. Fingers crossed you’ll get some mirror magic, with the reflective views of Franz Josef Glacier and snow-clad peaks in this tranquil setting.  

If you’re kids are eager for a longer leg-stretcher, Glacier Access Road is also the starting point for the Lake Wombat Walk (they’ll love the name). The lake is named after Jack Irwin, alias Wombat Jack, who sluiced for gold in the area in the 1800s. This 90 minute return walk is a lush fern-lined hike which climbs steadily from the car park through rimu forest to a peaceful kettle lake. Like Peter’s Pool, Lake Wombat was also formed by the melting of a huge piece of ice left amidst glacial debris about 9000 years ago. westcoast.co.nz/  

Where to stay? Te Waonui Forest Retreat is one of my all-time favourite eco-luxury accommodation experiences in New Zealand. Thickly enrobed by rainforest, this five star boutique retreat in Franz Josef is a haven from the hubbub of the tourist town. The focus has steadfastly stayed true to its roots - to create a healthy, environmentally safe habitat to maximise guests' wellbeing. With a natural, earthy ambience and highly attentive service, this is a sublime retreat in Franz Josef.  Every aspect of the 5 star Qualmark rated Te Waonui Forest Retreat has been crafted to impress.  

Te Waonui Forest Retreat. Photo / Scenic Hotel Group

From deluxe soundproofing technology between rooms to the five-course degustation menu featuring local and seasonal cuisine, every imaginable detail has been impeccably thought out. While I was staying at Te Waonui, a huge group of perky 65+ cyclists checked into the retreat, from all over the world, after rocking the West Coast’s wonderful trails. Their sense of anticipation for some blissed-out indulgence was palpable! Ingeniously built around a thick tract of rainforest, this restorative retreat continues to raise the bar on luxurious wilderness hospitality, wrapped in elemental wonder. Spoil yourself with a signature stay at this tranquil establishment. Breakfast and dinner upgrade packages are also available in the Frond Bar & Restaurant, which is headlined by their acclaimed degustation dinner. scenichotelgroup.co.nz/franz-josef/te-waonui-forest-retreat  

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.