Enrobed by chiselled cliff tops, wild beaches and the serene Grey Valley, the West Coast’s biggest town of Greymouth is so much more than just a gateway to the region. Explorer Thomas Brunner named the river in honour Governor George Edward Grey, which also gave rise to the town’s name. The town centre is built on the site of the former Māori pa called Māwhera, which translates as 'wide spread river mouth’. The latest attraction in town that is the worth the trip alone is Pounamu Pathway – Māwhera. 

Wētā Workshop has partnered with Poutini Ngāi Tahu, to create four Pounamu Pathway experience centres, celebrating the region’s cultural, historical, and natural heritage. Strung along the West Coast, the Greymouth centre has been open less than a year and it’s a stirring, story-telling experience with plenty of technological wizardry.  

If you’ve marvelled over those enormous sculptures in the Gallipoli exhibition in Te Papa, you’ll be equally awestruck by Māwhera’s staggering centrepiece, a giant sculpture of Tūhuru. My heart skipped a beat as I gazed up-close in awe of this hyper-realistic representation of the region’s renowned warrior chief. This super-sized sculpture is more than double the size of a human. You expect him to spring into life! Tūhuru has been magnificently adorned with woven accessories and the world’s largest known pounamu hei tiki. The pendant weighs 8kg! 

Tūhuru at Pounamu Athway. Photo / Mike Yardley

As you will learn, Tūhuru is a revered Ngāi Tahu historic figure, not only because he was 7 feet tall, but because he was a warrior chief who successfully led the conquest of the region by Ngāi Tahu. Ngāti Wairangi first settled here from the Taranaki in the 1500s. But Ngai Tahu were eager to seize control of their priceless pounamu trade. Tūhuru and his fellow warriors first destroyed Ngāti Wairangi’s pā at Māwhera, before ultimately waging a wider campaign and claiming the West Coast for Ngāi Tahu.  

Poutini Ngāi Tahu became their West Coast branch, Tūhuru and his people established a new pā at Māwhera and settled there. The flourishing pounamu trade made Kaiapoi their commercial hub. Tūhuru died in the 1850s and was buried in a hillside cave behind the pā site, which is where the beautiful Pounamu Pathway centre is located today. (It previously housed Revingtons Hotel.) That’s another special feature about this centre, it’s located on Poutini Ngāi Tahu’s ancestral homeland. The backstory is all vividly showcased with an immersive multi-media experience at the centre. As a lover of history, I also learnt about a fateful encounter for Ngāti Wairangi, which I had never heard before. They were intrepid pounamu traders, travelling north and even across the strait. But around 1750, one of their wahine, Raureka, discovered a route across the Southern Alps from the Arahura Valley.  

It’s now known as Browning Pass/ Nōti Raureka, at the head of the Wilberforce River. After crossing the divide, she met a group of Ngāi Tahu warriors hunting and gathering for food – and showed them the way across the mountains from the East. That was the catalyst for how Ngāi Tahu ended up waging battle with Ngāti Wairangi and conquering the West Coast/ Te Tai Poutini in the early 1800s. It is refreshing that the Pounamu Pathway centre has not sought to sugar-coat or airbrush away the bloody inter-tribal warfare, for the pounamu trade. You’ll glean so many insights into the rich history of Greymouth/Māwhera, along with some wondrous mythology. It’s unmissable. www.pounamupathway.com/mawhera 

Pounamu Pathway Māwhera Galleries. Photo / Supplied

After feeling thoroughly illuminated on the backstory, I met up with one of the great pounamu carvers on the West Coast. Just out of Greymouth, on the road to Shantytown, I called into Garth Wilson’s studio gallery. His family connections with collecting and carving pounamu go back hundreds of years through the two hapu of Poutini Ngāi Tahu, Ngāti Mahaki and Ngāti Waewae. Since he was a small boy, Garth has gathered pounamu from the wild West Coast rivers and he personally carves all the artworks you can admire in his studio. He’s more than happy to chat to you while he works away on his beautiful pieces. It was Captain Cook that coined the name “greenstone”, but greenstone, jade and pounamu are all the same thing. What makes New Zealand pounamu so distinctive is its vast range of colours. I had not previously appreciated just how broad that colour palette is, until I perused Garth’s specimens. It’s not just green. For example, Tutuweka Pounamu has a distinct blood red colouring – found in the Arahura River. Kokopu Pounamu, also from the Arahura, takes on the similar grey spotted patterning of a speckled trout. And the intense greens of Marsden Flower Jade, from just outside Greymouth, are enhanced with yellow, orange and cream colourings in the stone. Garth’s magnificent pieces are all unique, whether you’re looking for traditional pendants, bracelets, cufflinks, earrings, rings or a custom-made one-off piece. Be sure to call in or shop on-line. https://garthwilsonjade.co.nz 

Garth Wilson in his studio. Photo / Mike Yardley

Just north of Greymouth, one of the money-shot lookout points on the Great Coast Road is the roadside stop by the Strongman Mine Memorial, where the sprawling coastal vista is operatic. I’ve often marvelled over a tucked away property, set back from the beach on a terrace, surrounded by nature’s embrace, basking in the solitude. Best of all, you can stay here! Strung across two acres, Breakers Boutique Accommodation began life as Dr. Barry Dallas’ house in the 1970s. He was a Greymouth doctor and also served as Mayor. The story goes that this was Harbour Board land and should not have been built on. But when you’re the Mayor…!  

Fast forward to today and after many renovations, Jan and Stephen Roberts are the owners of this dreamy property, with dress-circle views over the pounding ocean and the stirring canvas of 9 Mile Beach. There’s a variety of accommodation offerings on-site, but I plumped for one of their high-spec, stylish guestrooms, in the adjacent building to the main house, overlooking nature’s pageantry. My Nikau Sunset Room boasted a supremely cosy super-king bed, luxurious bedding and linens and comfortable sitting area perfectly positioned to soak up the viewing splendour. The guestroom is decorated in warm neutral colourings, using native recycled timbers and beach stones. It’s wonderfully elemental.

Breakers site. Photo / Stephen Roberts

Jan and Stephen are the most exceptional hosts and environmental guardians, somehow managing to distil the essence of gold-standard West Coast hospitality, with a glorified art gallery of local works, including Stephen’s magnificent photography; a profusion of first-hand tips on the best walking trails to explore; and on-site dining. Jan whipped me up the most divine homemade pizza for dinner and laid-on a generous breakfast offering, fortifying me for the day ahead.  

Jan’s whakapapa includes Ngāi Tahu and she’s particularly proud of the native bush that she’s nurtured at the front of the property, just off the highway. It has a covenant placed on it by Ngāi Tahu, because it’s believed the land was a traditional Māori burial site. There’s kiwi in this bush and Jan’s Nikau Palm plantings have flourished.   

A private track leads down from the Breakers property to Nine Mile Beach. Nine Mile Creek flows down by the bottom of the track, which is backed by a fabulous waterfall, to the left. At low tide, dabble in the rock pools at Mussel Point, replete with starfish and mussels. There’s also a little blue penguin colony on this beach, which Breakers actively supports through the West Coast Penguin Trust. In-the-know advanced surfers also adore this beach because it has a powerful left break. But I was quite content to remain languid, luxuriating and lounging above the beach, feasting on the ocean panorama as a fireball sunset torched the Tasman Sea. Needless to say, it’s a photographic feast.  

Nine Mile Beach views from Breakers. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Another highlight is meeting Jan and Stephen’s effervescent fur children, Ansel and Emma. Ansel is a German Short Haired pointer, while Emma is an English Pointer. They are a frolicking bundle of fun. But be sure to make time to admire the rich trove of art on display around the property, showcasing some of the finest creatives in the Greymouth area, including Garth Wilson. Breakers are also big fans of Shades of Jade in Greymouth. Their master carver is Jeremy Dalziel. Greymouth’s Leftbank Gallery and Punakaiki Crafts are also prominent, but Kotuku Pottery’s exquisite pieces take centre stage, all over Breakers. Close to Lake Brunner, Kotuku Pottery is helmed by the delightful Sue Pidgeon and Ian Dalzell. Their coal fired and salt glazed works are splendid. Bask in the brilliance of Breakers Beachfront Accommodation. It embodies the best of the West. You will never want to wave goodbye. www.breakers.co.nz 

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.