Tucked away in the beating heart of Lewis Pass National Reserve, one of the great alpine routes crossing the Southern Alps, is a wondrous mountain retreat that will refresh your spirits. Backed by jagged peaks, a blaze of beech forests and the pristine flow of the Maruia River, Maruia Hot Springs is a timeless, elemental resting place. This storied site has been used for relaxing and healing for centuries.

It has had a long and colourful history, first used by Māori pounamu traders and warriors to sooth their aches and wounds, during their arduous journeys carrying stone over the pass. The word Maruia translates as “shelter.” European settlers built bathhouses at the pools in the 19th century, and a roadside hotel eventually sprung up here, as well. I fondly recall holidaying here as a child in the winter school holidays, when it was a rather rustic pub and motel wing. It was later turned into a Japanese-style Onsen, but for the past decade it has fostered a solid reputation as an award-winning hot springs retreat.

Hop-scotch your way between the three hot pools which are all fed by a geothermal spring, pumping out the water from close to the earth’s core at a piping 56c. You won’t get scorched, as it’s then cooled to between 37 and 42c. Chemical-free, the pools are infused only with natural minerals and trace elements. The high mineral content also means they’re home to a unique black algae, whose benefits are not dissimilar to the superfood spirulina.

Maruia Hot Springs pool. Photo / Supplied

Rather than ingesting it, rub it in to your skin. The algae imbues Maruia's pools with a distinctive look, with the water taking on varying shades of green, grey, and inky black. Those hot mineral waters boast a slew of benefits, from reduced stress and anxiety, better circulation, help with sore joints and arthritis, and improved sleep. I love how these hot pools are draped in natural features, from native grasses and local stones, to the expansive, soothing views across the alpine landscape. You’re soaking in supreme solitude.

This world-class wellness destination not only encompasses hot pools, but an ice-cold plunge pool for “extreme bathing”, infrared and rock sauna rooms, steam rooms, and delicious organic food. Be sure to try the traditional Onsen thermal shower experiences and the indoor Onsen pools with floor to ceiling windows. There’s also a mineral foot bath at Maruia Hot Springs, plus how about a yoga class or a great massage? Admittedly, the ice-cold plunge pool is challenging, but exhilarating. It’s 2.5 metres deep – just jump straight in to get fully immersed, then use the ladder to swiftly clamber out. Set at a fresh seven degrees Celsius, the plunge pool will certainly get your heart rate up! Challenge your will-power and after a fleeting 10 second dalliance, see if you can stay in that frigid water for a minute or two. Overnight guests can enjoy the daily wellness programme, which starts with a "wake and activate" yoga session.

The on-site restaurant serves up splendidly healthy dishes, crafted from organic ingredients and local suppliers. Each course starts with homemade kombucha. There’s a gourmet lunch menu, all day snacks, and magnificent dinner options like Japanese simmered white fish with steamed black rice and edamame beans; or how about rice idle with lentils, coconut chutney, coriander and fried potatoes? Platter-fans, rejoice. Delectable combos include Akaroa smoked salmon, Russian-style kransky, Blackball salami, Kapiti blue and Whitestone brie cheeses - plus homemade sourdough bread.

Tasty bites at Maruia Hot Springs. Photo / Supplied

Maruia Springs caters to a very broad church, with accommodation options to please all budgets. Book a single, double or twin room, or one of the family rooms with a mountain view or river view. The newly reconstructed guest rooms embrace the natural surrounds with floor-to-ceiling windows, a private terrace, a plush king bed or up to three singles, and custom-made furnishings throughout, creating a tactile and tranquil space. Showers with locally made bath products and cosy robes and towels all ramp up the cosy indulgence. You can also try glamping in the beautiful pods which include a queen bed, writing table, heated towel rail and mood lighting. If you prefer to be camp, park up at the unpowered campground for self-contained and non self-contained vehicles and tents.

If you’re short on time, but want some chill-time, escape to Maruia Hot Springs for a few hours or for a day pass. You don’t have to stay overnight – you can relax all day, pick or choose from the daily wellness activities or just send a few hours bathing in the mineral pools. A three-hour bathe and sauna pass is just $49. What I adore about this retreat is that every part of your body feels re-set and revitalised – as does your mind and soul. www.maruiahotsprings.nz

Glamping at Maruia Hot Springs. Photo / Supplied

Want to stretch the legs? Short hiking trails near Maruia Hot Springs include an easy ramble along the stone-strewn Maruia River Trail, the one- to two-hour Circuit Trail through green forest to a viewpoint looking out to the river and the serrated mountains, and the steep Waterfall Trek, where you can see the pipeline that supplies Maruia its water.

Not far from Maruia Springs, the Waterfall Nature Walk is a short and sweet bush walk to a 40-metre waterfall. It’s a family favourite. For something more intrepid, the 3 hours long Lake Daniell track starts from the Marble Hill picnic site, just east of Springs Junction. Cross the bridge over the Maruia River and follow this easy graded track upstream to the Alfred River and Lake Daniell, passing through red-beech forest. There are prolific bird species in these parts to please the twitcher, especially kakariki and South Island robin. Other encounters include the tomtit, rifleman, robin, tūī, fernbird, silvereye, grey warbler, bellbird, and even kākā.

South Island robin. Photo / iNaturalist

I love how inquisitive, friendly and fearless the South Island robin is. I also encountered him on the Rough Creek Track, which is a gut-busting, thigh-burning uphill track that starts from the Lewis Pass highway, just past Maruia Springs. Even if you only walk ten minutes of this track, you’revery likely to have a robin rendezvous. Strike out on a wonderful escape to the untamed natural wilderness of the West Coast this summer. For more trip inspiration, head to https://westcoast.co.nz

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.