Hollywood drips with international glamour. But how can you break through the Tinsel Town mystique and bask in the stardust? On my most recent visit, I set myself the mission of staking out some old-school glamour, celeb-heavy haunts and trending hotspots. All roads lead to the Hollywood Strip, or “the boulevard of broken dreams”, as my Red Line walking tour guide, Michael, preferred to call it. http://redlinetours.com/la/

Red Line’s Behind the Scenes tour has become part of Hollywood folklore, expertly narrated and spiriting you into many storied nooks and crannies, that most tourists miss. Starting on the Strip, Michael led us to what has fast become the most defaced star on the Walk of Fame. Donald Trump’s star. Stretching for 15 blocks, the sidewalks are inlaid with over 2400 brass-and-terrazzo stars, honouring a galaxy of entertainment legends. “Guess who paid for Donald’s star?” Michael rhetorically enquired. “Mexico, of course!”

Earlier in the day at my hotel, I had a major star moment, shoulder to shoulder with Cyndi Lauper. She was in town to unveil her Walk of Fame star, outside the grand old Pantages Theatre, where Kinky Boots was back on stage. As I was leaving the hotel, the elevator stopped on the first floor, Ms Lauper and her entourage swept in, and my heart skipped a beat.  Feeling a little star-struck, I casually gushed, “Ms Lauper, I had a major school-boy crush on you thirty years ago.” Without batting an eyelid, she swiftly responded, “Oh – but what about, now?” Dressed like a 20 year old, with a plunging neckline blouse, she is a smashingly youthful 62 year old.

But after admiring some of the legendary names lining the sidewalks, Michael ushered us in what I think is the most unsung vestige of Hollywood glam: the Egyptian Theatre. Extensively restored and earthquake re-strengthened in recent years, this picture palace was the birthplace of the movie premiere and the movie star.  Built by Sid Grauman in 1922, he used search lights for a premiere and it was where red carpet was first rolled out all the way to the street. Egyptian music and incense wafted through the courtyard, adding to the Egyptian motif, which was all the rage, given the epic excavations and discovery of King Tut’s tomb.

Inside the theatre, I admired the two Egyptian dog statues, gifted to the theatre by 20th Century Fox, which featured in Cleopatra, starring Elizabeth Taylor. The Red Line Tour is a great way to get inside this heritage-studded shrine. Five years later, Sid Grauman launched another lavish movie palace, the Chinese Theatre, which continues to host more world premieres than any other theatre on the planet. 

I’ve often wondered how the celebrity hand -and-footprints , immortalised in the forecourt, first came about. Red Line’s Michael had the good oil. Sid Grauman created the first footprints by mistake – stepping into wet concrete as his theatre was being constructed. The foreman remarked,  “Those footprints are going to be there forever,” – and the rest is history. Right next door is the permanent home of the Academy Awards, the Dolby Theatre. Well worth a look, theatre tours run every half hour, and the cavernous interior is like a 21st century version of a classic European opera house, with soaring balconies and budgie cages.

Also on the boulevard, another vintage theatre is the Hollywood Theatre, circa 1913, is now home to the Guinness Museum, while the Hollywood Museum is housed in the 1930s’ Max Factor building, where so many screen legends were transformed in the famous make-up rooms. Lucille Ball, Rita Hayworth, Judy Garland and Elizabeth Taylor were just some of the starlets who were primped and styled here – as was Marilyn Monroe. It was here that the brunette became the blonde bombshell. Alongside the make-up rooms, the museum has over 10,000 exhibits and costumes, amassed over the decades, from James Dean memorabilia to Hannibal Lecter’s jail cell from Silence of the Lambs. 

Commissioned by Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford, the landmark Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel has lorded over the boulevard since opening in 1927,and hosting the first ever Academy Awards two years later. It’s where Shirley Temple learnt to tap dance and where Marilyn Monroe, who allegedly haunts the hotel, was a resident for two years when her modelling career took off. Her first magazine shoot, for a tanning salon, was shot by the Tropicana pool.

That location is now one of two top hideaway venues within the hotel for Hollywood’s in-crowd, that you can gain access too. A true Hollywood oasis, the poolside Tropicana Café & Bar is a seductive retreat both day and night with great DJ parties. Book a late breakfast here. The subterranean recesses of the Hollywood Roosevelt are home to Beacher’s Madhouse, the infamous Vaudeville-inspired cabaret and nightclub, which Ryan Seacrest re-opened last October.  Throbbing with burlesque dancers, contortionists, impersonators and fire-breathers, you will need to check your political correctness at the door. The entertainment is off the wall, thinking flying Oompa-Loompas and midget bartenders. 

Another star-studded haunt for close celebrity encounters – and the permanent presence of paparazzi, is The Ivy in Robertson Boulevard. It’s a great spot for breakfast or lunch: order up the homemade buttermilk pancakes and fresh ginger tea.

By the way, if you notice swarms of tourists photographing the fast food joint, El Pollo Loco, on the corner of Serrano Ave and Sunset Boulevard, the reason is this is where a struggling young actor named Brad Pitt, would beckon customers into the store, dressed up as a chicken on the roadside. Nearby, on the Sunset Strip, pop into the auction house, Bonhams.  (7601 W. Sunset Boulevard.) They stage regular auctions and the loot inside this place rivals a museum. It is the number one clearing house for second-hand celebrity goods.

If you’re up for a hill walk, and heading up to Griffth Observatory, take the Hollyridge Trail for the 40 minute hike up to the summit of Mt Hollywood. You’ll be handsomely rewarded with stirring views across the entire Los Angeles basin. Nearby, follow the trail to Bronson Canyon where you’ll see the original bat cave, as featured in the 1960’s Batman TV series. I was half-expecting to see the Batmobile come flying out of the tunnel.

If you’re wondering where my Cyndi Lauper encounter occurred, it was within the resplendent confines of The Redbury, a boutique all-suites hotel that sits across the road from the iconic Capitol Records building on Vine Street. Glamorous, colourful and spacious, the 57 guest suites come complete with record players and vinyl collections. I played Duke Ellington on repeat. The quirky and eye-catching art pieces, sprinkled throughout the property are pure escapism. Accommodation rates are not eye-watering – and you never know who you’ll bump into! www.theredbury.com

Traversing the bright lights and big sights of Hollywood has been made considerably easier with the advent of Starline Tours' Hop-On Hop-Off Los Angeles buses. I also used it as a trusty transfer service when changing hotels. Offering 24, 48 and 72-hour passes, it’s the ultimate way to enjoy flexibility and freedom to see the city on your own schedule. For full details head to www.starlinetours.com/hop-on-hop-off

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s Travel Correspondent on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.