
Surrounded by vaulting mountains and an opal-blue sea, bejewelled Monaco is a splashy metropolitan marvel in the Mediterranean. But despite its reputation as a residential bolt-hole for the mega-rich, it is a misnomer to suggest that Monaco requires a zillion-dollar budget to have fun. Yes this mini metropolis with its sleek, sharply-edged high-rises and softer curved luxury villas is the playground of the buffed and the befurred, but two of the marquee attractions are in fact free to enjoy.
Monaco is like a grand production, a unique spectacle, where the locals and visitors alike, are players in this effervescent bubble of extravagance. Get a helicopter view of the principality’s striking skyline and compact harbourside setting, from the lofty heights of Palais Princier. The palace is home to the ruling Grimaldi family, who have been calling the shots since 1297. The cobbled main square in front of the be-columned Renaissance palace plays host to a daily changing of the guard at 11.55am. During the summer months, parts of the palace are open to the public, where you can view the priceless interiors, sumptuous furniture and carpets, and its ravishing frescoes.
A short walk brings you to the neo-Byzantine Cathedral, a glorious sanctuary of calm and final resting place of Monaco’s royal family. Prince Rainier III was laid to rest in 2005, next to the tomb of his famous film star wide, Grace Kelly, who tragically died on Monaco’s steep roads in 1982. Next stop is my favourite Monaco experience, a magnificent maritime encounter in the Oceanographic Museum.
Founded just over a century ago by Prince Albert I, this vast showcase of sealife is dramatically built into a cliff and underground. This colossal aquarium features ninety different tanks and the prize draw is the lagoon, where massive ocean predators will float by, and a huge coral reef separates the big boys from Nemo and his tropical pals in this watery world of wonders. Exquisitely presented, with super-sized glass panels, millions of litres of fresh ocean water pumps through the facility everyday.Â
The latest addition to the museum is on the roof terrace, which offers salivating panoramas of Monaco, and is home to the new turtle and tortoise sanctuary. Named, Turtle Island, this new live exhibit is dedicated to protecting and promoting the magic of sea turtles and tortoises.
Another impressive Monaco attraction is Jardin Exotique, which is billed as the finest gardens in Europe. The park certainly boasts a stunning profusion of tropical and subtropical plants, which will soon fill up your camera’s memory card. Perched high up at the entrance to the principality, it tumbles almost perpendicular down the rock face, so it’s quite a work-out to take in the botanical sights. Worth it, though, for the exemplary collection of cacti and succulents. Some are over 100 years old and have grown gargantuan, so it’s like tottering through a sort of vertical Arizona.
Top off your visit with a quick fling at the Monte Carlo Grand Casino, the financial engine room of Monaco. Designed in 1878 by Charles Garnier, architect of the Paris Opera, the lavish Belle Epoque-designed interior will have you feeling like you’ve walked into a James Bond movie set. You’ll need to have cash to burn if you want to stay and play, but at least wander in to soak up the acres of gold leaf and opulent Rococo design touches, whether you’re a gambler or not. Outside, soak up the jaw-dropping panoply of ultra-luxury vehicles parked up around the main entrance.
The big sunglasses, the big hair and the big money takes Monaco by storm for the two headline events of the year. The Cannes Film Festival, in early May before the annual  vroom vroom bash later in the month, when the Formula One Grand Prix rips around the streets.
Lemons and Katherine Mansfield: it’s not often you’d see those words in the same sentence. Just ten minutes from Monaco, I love Menton for its colour, relaxed tempo and affordablity. Lap up the fantastic baroque architecture, sandy beaches, pastel coloured houses, the Riviera’s best gardens and France’s best lemons.
And yes the Kiwi connection is worth a stop. You can see Villa Ezolla Bella, where Mansfield lived as she battled tuberculosis. Also in the area, pint-sized and princess-pretty Villefranche. It’s like a miniature version of Menton, with a chocolate box harbour and 14th century old town. Well worth a day trip.
The French Riviera train system will be your best friend. You can hop-skotch your way all along the Rivera. It’s cheap as chips, high frequency and picturesque. When’s best to visit? April to June and September to October are the optimum months when the crowds are thinner, but the sun-kissed coast still basks in vintage warmth.
Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s Travel Correspondent on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.
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