The Adelaide Hills, cloaked in native forest finery and rolling farmland is the picture-perfect base from which to launch a tasty South Australian getaway. Within 60 minutes of wheels down on the airport runway, my rental car wheels were rolling through the Adelaide Hills. It’s the smashing valley vistas and bucolic splendour that instantly impresses. First stop, the storied hillside mecca of Hahndorf, steeped in German/Prussian pioneering tradition.
The fairytale main street, complete with Bavarian-style pubs serving steins and bratwurst are obligatory stops. But like much of the region, Hahndorf has fostered a red-hot reputation with foodies. Stroll the main street and check out the abundance of food producers. Harris Smokehouse is a fourth generation, family owned and operated business. Adelaide Hills residents adore this smokehouse, which specialises in locally sourced seafood.
A few doors down, call into the Udder Delights Cheese Cellar, which as its name suggests, is a cellar door for beautifully crafted local gourmet cheese. In addition to its tastings and produce shop, the on-site cheese making school is an added highlight. One of the most photogenic settings for wine tasting I have ever experienced is RockBare Cellar Door. Set in an 1845 stone cottage bursting with rustic charm, RockBare showcases some outstanding local wines.
For a change of scenery, take a short drive to The Cedars, the wonderfully preserved home and studio of one of Australia’s finest artists. Hans Heysen was the master of the Australian landscape, notably the Outback, and an extensive collection of his work is on show. Don’t leave Hahndorf without experiencing one of the newer hospitality players: The Haus. The Cafe, Bar and Kitchen is a diverse outlet catering to all needs, whether it be a formal dining experience, unfussy quick bite, or kicking back in a playful bar.
On the northern fringe of Adelaide, big, brash and torch-bearing Barossa is Australia’s most famous wine region. Barossa is beautifully complimented by its smaller southern sister, McLaren Vale. Just 40 kilometres from Adelaide, photogenic McLaren Vale is a byword for boutique. On the approach to the Fleurieu Peninsula, the village-style wine district boasts no less than 76 cellar doors to explore.
The mood music is mellow, the welcome is warm and the district marches to a leisurely beat. A great base to plump for is the McLaren Vale Studio Apartments. The complex comprises just six designer apartments loaded with personality, from the rich timbers and bold modern tones to the luxury spa bathrooms and complimentary bottles of wine. ( Each apartment is individually-named by a local winery. I stayed in the Dancing Fig.)
Across the road, lap up the ebullient Italian hospitality at the award-winning Tin Shed Cafe. One of the region’s rock stars, Primo Estate, is home to Joseph Wine and olive oil. Primo remains a family owned winery producing a magnificent range of wines, steeped in Italian tradition. Another top-drawer is the Almond and Olive Train, an historic railway carriage, that graces the retired Adelaide-Willunga railway line. Enter the carriage and you enter an almond emporium. The staggering product range includes sweet & sour almonds, almond oil toiletries and exquisite soaps.
Make a dining date with The Barn; a splendidly restored 1840s’ coachway station which has won the hearts of restaurant critics for decades. The accent is unfailingly focused on delivering gourmet regional food with irrepressible flair. Opt for the tapas menu and your taste-buds will play all night. If you’re hankering for a beer, head to the McLaren Vale Beer Company, home to the renowned Vale Ale. The boutique brewery produces beautifully crafted beer. In fact, the brewing trade was well and truly thriving, when the first wineries opened.
The McLaren Vale Beer Company recently renewed its links to the past, by restoring the historic Salopian Inn, which began life as roadside watering-hole in 1851. Since 2009, it’s been back to the future for the slate-floored stone building, flourishing as an atmospheric oasis for thirsty travellers, with the addition of an award-winning restaurant. Much of the produce is sourced from the bountiful Willunga Farmers Market. Held every Saturday, this is a market par excellence.
Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s Travel Correspondent on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame. 11.20am
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