From the alligator-skinned Rolls Royces to the edible gold cupcakes coveted by those who flaunt their wealth, Dubai revels in its reputation as a big, brash show-off. 

Skyscraper spectating strikes me as a particularly hallucinatory pursuit in Dubai. Proudly home to ten of the world’s fifty tallest buildings, some of which are taller than classified mountains, the flashy adolescent of the Arabian Gulf is like one trippy receptacle of architectural fantasy.

As I gazed in awe at some of the newest superstructures, that gleaming jet-black tower I was eye-balling, masterfully curling back on itself, increasingly resembled a giant stick of liquorice.

Or maybe, I was succumbing to the heat.

But the world’s tallest tower, cloud-piercing Burj Khalifa, lords over them all.  I’ve been lucky enough to scale many of the world’s iconic observation towers, but Dubai’s “At the Top” experience is so high, it can literally feel over the top - as if you’ve been thrust and suspended in low-orbit. Needless to say, the horizon-wide views stretch into infinity, notwithstanding the pesky intrusion of desert dust and urban smog. For diversionary indulgence, 122 floors up, survey the sights from At.mosphere, one of the coolest cocktail venues in town. Book a table by the window so you can also take in the dancing fountain show from the magnificence of this mahogany-clad lounge. Drink prices are sky high too, but have a wee splash - order up a signature cocktail infused with frankincense.

Burj Khalifa springs from the loins of Dubai Mall, an all-consuming shopping colossus, with over 1200 stores sprawling over 500,000 square metres of retail real estate. An hour inside this monster was quite sufficient for me, but I ticked off two staples: Pop into Candylicious, the world’s biggest confectionary shop, before balancing up your gluttony by virtuously perusing the shelves of what claims to be the world’s biggest book shop, Book World by Kinokuniya.

Soak up the splashy delight of the dancing Dubai Fountains, designed by the same wizards behind the Bellagio waterworks, which burst into soundtracked, choreographed glory, every 30 minutes from 6pm. The illuminated water jets shoot 500ft into the air, and it goes without saying - it’s the world’s biggest dancing fountain show.

Now 17-years-old, Burj Al Arab remains a compelling totem of raw luxury. Inspired by the shape of a billowing sail on traditional Arabian dhow, if you’re up for one serious splurge in Dubai, make a date with this masterpiece, to swoon over the bold theatrics of its interior. The towering atrium slopes like the hull of a giant ship, studded with a frenzy of art works and cascading fountains. You can swoon over this interior by making a booking for High Tea, either in the Atrium at Sahn Eddar, or push the boat out even further for a Sky Tea at Skyview Bar.

Go on, assault yourself with the unabashed decadence. 

Take a jaunt to Palm Jumeirah, an audacious extension of humanity into the Arabian Gulf, shaped like a giant palm tree with 17 fronds. Home to the equally audacious Atlantis The Palm resort, the underwater attractions justify the visit, alone. The Lost Chambers Aquarium is a whimsical watery wonderland, home to 65,000 marine creatures, sumptuously presented and lustily themed as The Lost City of Atlantis. The magnificent aquariums throng with marine life from all over the planet, from absurdly pretty reef fish to mighty sharks and rays. The easiest way to get to Atlantis is to hop aboard the Palm Monorail, which will also provide you with an elevated perspective over the Royal Family’s palace and the swathe of exquisitely beautiful villas springing up all over Palm Jumeirah.

Featuring a ravishing parade of glittering tall towers, strung around the largest man-made marina in the world, with super-yachts tethered to moorings, the Dubai Marina district is a relatively recent development, proving immensely attractive to visitors. One of the best ways to explore Dubai Marina is simply to stroll around the beautifully landscaped boardwalks of the 7km long marina promenade. On the western side of the marina, I feasted my eyes on what is considered the “tallest block in the world”, a tightly-bound cluster of towering skyscrapers with grandiose architectural flourishes. It’s a spangled head-swirl at night.  The Red Line of the Dubai Metro effortlessly connects the marina with Downtown Dubai.

Dubai never seems bereft of fantastical ideas and extravagant constructions. Here’s a taste of some new headliners currently in the works. Set to be the world’s tallest ferris wheel, Dubai Eye will be the centrepiece of Bluewaters Island, jutting off the shoreline of Jumeirah Beach Residence. The 210 metre wheel, inspired by the 135 metre-tall London Eye, will be the crowning glory of this beachfront entertainment hub, which is set to open later this year.

As its name suggests Dubai Frame resembles a giant picture frame, an iconic new landmark taking shaping in Zabeel Park. Comprising two 150-metre towers 93 metres wide, they’re connected with a 100 square metre walkway, made entirely glass. It aims to give visitors the perfect vantage point to snap all of Dubai’s trademark constructions.

Set to open in the next few months, IMG Worlds of Adventure will be the largest temperature controlled indoor themed entertainment destination in the world. Featuring four “epic adventure zones”, Cartoon Network and MARVEL will anchor the superhero and cartoon character pulling power. Also waiting in the wings is Bollywood Park, bling bling India-style, which will feature 30 live shows on five stages. And Legoland is set to open its first Middle East theme park, later this year.

Bigger, brighter, better rolls on.

Getting there?  Emirates has launched its first non-stop service between Dubai and Auckland, one of the world’s longest scheduled flights, bringing 39 European destinations and another 38 in Africa and the Middle East within just one stop of New Zealand. The historic ultra-long haul direct daily service is in additiona to the four other daily services from Auckland and Christchurch that connect to Dubai via Australia. For best rates and flights to suit, head to www.emirates.com/nz