As our rather wimpy winter begins packing its bags and shuffling out of town, you should be packing yours for some alpine excitement to herald the arrival of spring. Thank God for the high country and the majesty of the Mackenzie region. Just four hours south-west of Christchurch, Aoraki/Mt. Cook is permanently cloaked in a glistening snow coat – even in the height of summer, so the promise of postcard scenery is absolutely part of the package. In fact, much of the Mackenzie region, which enjoys an altitude over 700 metres above sea level, boasts snow-draped landscapes deep into spring. 

Recently, I headed out of Christchurch in the inky pre-dawn darkness, and just over two hours later I driving through the Mackenzie gateway of Fairlie. I lucked out spectacularly, because the sun’s first rays illuminated the landscape right on-cue, with the surrounding snow-capped ranges of Tripps Peak and Mount Dobson taking on a dusky pink hue in the early morning light-play. Driving up and over Burkes Pass to Tekapo, lush rolling hills give way to the arid plains of snow-speckled golden tussock, while ever more dramatic mountain scenery shuffles into view.

Two Thumb Range, absolutely drenched in snow right down to its base, and the serrated sprawling spectacle of Ben Ohau Range greet your arrival into the heart of the Mackenzie with topographic delight. My final destination was Mt. Cook village, but first I had a date with the kings of scenic flight, Air Safaris.

For more than 45 years this family-owned business, headed up by Richard and Tim Rayward, have exhilarated visitors with their pioneering sightseeing flights across the Mackenzie, Mt Cook National Park and Westland.  I was joining five other passengers, from California, the UK and Japan, for some majestic mountain ogling, from within the toasty confines of a Gippsland GA8 Plane, ingeniously designed so that all passengers have unobstructed window views.

Air Safaris’ signature experience is the Grand Traverse, a 50-minute aerial romp through the heart of the Southern Alps, with eye-poppingly intimate encounters of our highest peaks, the tumbling glaciers and luminous turquoise brilliance of the glacier-fed lakes. I have never been so close to the highest reaches of Aoraki/Mt. Cook – as if I could have virtually reached out to touch its formidable summit. The biggest dilemma you’ll face is whether to try and photograph and video the rolling kaleidoscope of alpine wonders – or put the camera down and just drink it all in. Whatever impulse wins the day, it is undeniably the flight of a lifetime. www.airsafaris.co.nz 

Back on terra firma, the adrenaline rush lingers long, after wallowing in such a head-whirl of achingly gorgeous panoramic theatre. From Tekapo, I drove on to Lake Pukaki, turning off the highway to head to Mt. Cook village, where a world of wondrous walking opportunities await.  The most surprising aspect to Aoraki/Mt. Cook’s surrounding terrain is just how easily accessible it is. You don’t need to be a mountaineer or spectacularly fit to undertake intimate wilderness walks that get you blissfully up-close with our highest peak.

Routinely decorated as New Zealand’s greatest day walk, the Hooker Valley Track is a gentle three-hour jaunt.  Leading up the valley with unbelievably good viewpoints like Alpine Memorial, you’ll traverse golden tussocks, swing bridges, get up close with the Mueller and Hooker Glacier, and be rewarded with celestial views of Mt. Cook and the Southern Alps.  In summer, the added spectacle of wildflowers like the famed Mount Cook buttercup, heighten the spectacle.

I also love the Kea Point Track, which starts from The Hermitage, and can be easily accomplished within 2 hours. It’s also a relatively flat walk, emblazoned in golden tussock and subalpine grasslands, leading you to the Mueller Glacier moraine wall. The walk culminates with sumptuous close-up views of Mt. Sefton, The Footstool, Aoraki and the Mueller Glacier lake. As I experienced, the supreme silence is only pierced by the thunderous booms of crashing ice, breaking away from the glacier at its terminal. Calving.  

My third must-do walk recommendation is in the Tasman Valley, an quick 8km drive from the Hermitage. The short 40 minute return starts from the Blue Lakes Shelter, slinking past the lakes to a viewpoint of the Tasman Glacier face. The vivid blue water is frequently speckled with icebergs floating by, adding to the untamed drama of this stunningly enjoyable walk. 

The Mackenzie region’s vivid lakes, blue glaciers and jagged mountains are ripe for exploration in so many ways, including the Alps2Ocean cycle trail. A great starting point when planning a journey to this majestic region of New Zealand is the official website, www.MackenzieNZ.com